dpmiller

have I missed any reference the DHW in this?

that would be GB then surely

you're replacing an exsisting tank so just do it. No plumber involvement either, it's just a couple of fittings, plus a plastic tank aint heavy. And whatever you do, don't involve OFTEC...

drill the bottom of the tank and put a pipe up as an internal overflow, then set the lot over a gully trap

what's wrong wth a normal spear bit for this?

squeeze and wiggle the spring and it should come off the legs it pivots on

check out Keylite also

why not just use as much lekky as you want, til something blows. How can they blame *you* if there are another couple of houses on the pole...

just put a spanner on the "nut" in the middle of the hinge, to try and jack it L-R?

or just done it live and got a bit wet...

Any chance the handle is slightly bent and not closing completely before hitting the stop?

how does the door look like it's fitting into the frame as it closes- are any of the latchy bits rubbing anywhere?

is it leaking at the gland, or is it passing? Is your water hard?

looks like the original valves have 1/4 or 3/8 nuts on, so the nuts and olives will need removing regardless

so, what does seagull taste like anyway?

ignoring defrosts, with good control and a big coil (or PHE) the heat pump can act almost like a combi. But again, gotta define your flow requirements first...

I like the first one best, just shift the wall slightly to shrink the utility. And do something with the back hall- does it really not have an internal door? Inlaw's bungalow is very similar to this. Loft is floored and the stair opening trimmed out and just PB'd over

no, not at all. NI's water infrastructure might be crumbling, but us private plant owners get a free on-demand pumpout. https://www.niwater.com/need-our-help/arrange-septic-tank-emptying

too much hassle to do it the legal way I guess. Do you guys not get one free pump out each year from the water board?

and then do what with it exactly?

does it really need a fence even? Hedge out, bit of surfacing, done.

WMs generally have a bit of overhang on the rear of their "worktop", the actually chassis is a bit shallower...

yep. An hour of boost programmed into the immersion diverter means the ASHP can fill it's boots topping the slab up without pause.

A vote for TrojanCast here- we've a sizeable corner bath that is used mostly as an ultradeep shower tray, and it's very solid both at base and rim.