dpmiller

LBS do a steel one to go with the snowdon tiles

Breakers for the SBS boards are still available under other names...

Sitrep 01/25 Kitchen in during the summer, tiling on the to-do list the topsoil mound in the back garden has now more or less disappeared and the rest of the garden is a bit more level. Plus the back hedge is mostly rejuvinated. We lost the big Scots Pine at the side of the lane during Storm Darragh (fell across the lane, naturally...) so that's a fair few tonnes of firewood to process for seasoning. We're still comfy and cozy, and well pleased with how the house works for us. ASHP's consumption for the year was 2996kWh and as around 2/3 of that was E7 overnight we are very pleased to heat a much larger house for less than the cost of heating the previous wee bungalow. Plenty more to do this year tho, but it's ever more home, and less work-in-progress. I gotta thank all you lovely folk in the Community, Buildhub is so much more then just a resource...

so the winner is... Ender 3 V3 KE. Superb piece of kit, hasn't put a foot wrong yet.

that'll do it...

Looks good. I kept away from lead for our build as much as possible, but of all the lead replacements I used/tried, I quite enjoyed working with Leadax

Ignis is 565 between studs, and CLS studs are generally well below the nominal 38mm. I had no issues. But yes, it's just a lump of rockwool so you could do whatever is required...

are the manifold isolators actually opening correctly?

my situation might have been a wee bit different as we used a Schiedel Swift Air chimneyblock system, but I left fitting the air feed until I was fitting the stove and a short length of aluminium flexypipe links stove to the pipe coming into the house.

I think most of the Merchants can probably order from Schiedel. We ordered all our chimney stuff through NG Bells in Ballywalter as they were handy. no real hassle to install, just needed to cut a hole in the OSB then it sat neatly between the studs.

clamp-on/ self piercing fitting would work well here

608s?

how long is the capiliary/ what size is the thermophial? One of these is the normal modern style, if you can find a way to mount it inside the housing. They notmally clamp onto the end of the thermopocket in the boiler https://www.amazon.co.uk/Codice-Thermostat-Control-IMIT-TLSC-542791/dp/B01N6ILC6T/ref=sr_1_6?nsdOptOutParam=true

are the fans unique or generic? See if you can get an info off photos of spare fans and you might be able to scare up videos of someone having done it before.

I'd opine that a masonry bit won't drill accurately enough that you'll see a difference between 4.8 and 5mm. And certainly with the blocks we get round here, you *will* need hammer...

what happens if you quickly open the stove door on a windy night/ before the chimney heats? A wee bit of pressure in the room will assist ensuring the smoke goes the right direction at times like this.

what size of supply was requested/ offered?

I guess the question is, if the MVHR is "unbalanced", where does the excess air normally go... I commissioned my system on a still day with doors and windows open- intake and extract flows set to nominal figures separately- I then closed the house up and ramped the supply fan a touch to get positive pressure on a manometer. Minimal change to flows noticeable. Losing a small amount of heated/ preheated air is a price I prefer to pay over cold air infiltration through any unavoidable leaks.

I didn't find any reason not to have a roomsealed woodstove in an MVHR-equipped house, but I *did* understand that I could not have extraction in that room; our stove is in a room with only a supply vent, the kitchen end of the house may get a gas stove some day as that's OK in a room with extraction. I also chose to run the house at a slight positive pressure to reduce the chances of smoke being pulled into the room if the stove door is opened to rapidly etc.

best to ensure a vertical drop before these dry traps I find, there can be a bit of water builds up before there's enough weight to "open" the membrane

take the humidity limit up a few % and see if it comes out of boost. IIRC ours was a bit oversensitive out of the box and yes, get a trap on the drain

there should be a wee squiggle symbol at the bottom right of the display if it's auto-boosting because of humidity

Umm, isn't that beaded water on the *outside* of the unit, but under the rubber weatherseal?

very like Dewalt except... positive and negative are reversed on the batteries so don't try swapping them around...

is it not a replaceable bladder?