dpmiller

what size of supply was requested/ offered?

I guess the question is, if the MVHR is "unbalanced", where does the excess air normally go... I commissioned my system on a still day with doors and windows open- intake and extract flows set to nominal figures separately- I then closed the house up and ramped the supply fan a touch to get positive pressure on a manometer. Minimal change to flows noticeable. Losing a small amount of heated/ preheated air is a price I prefer to pay over cold air infiltration through any unavoidable leaks.

I didn't find any reason not to have a roomsealed woodstove in an MVHR-equipped house, but I *did* understand that I could not have extraction in that room; our stove is in a room with only a supply vent, the kitchen end of the house may get a gas stove some day as that's OK in a room with extraction. I also chose to run the house at a slight positive pressure to reduce the chances of smoke being pulled into the room if the stove door is opened to rapidly etc.

best to ensure a vertical drop before these dry traps I find, there can be a bit of water builds up before there's enough weight to "open" the membrane

take the humidity limit up a few % and see if it comes out of boost. IIRC ours was a bit oversensitive out of the box and yes, get a trap on the drain

there should be a wee squiggle symbol at the bottom right of the display if it's auto-boosting because of humidity

Umm, isn't that beaded water on the *outside* of the unit, but under the rubber weatherseal?

very like Dewalt except... positive and negative are reversed on the batteries so don't try swapping them around...

is it not a replaceable bladder?

any chance of a photo with a wider view for some context? That looks a bit like a suppression capacitor to me...

Pics 4& 5 is that actually mud, or have you teed him off enough that he's washed out the mixer into it?

Ive just got a gravity flap (with rubber seals) in the pipe up from the hood and it seals fine but can occasionally rattle in strong winds from a certain direction. I really only use the extractor when frying/ stirfrying as generally the MVHR deals with a wee bit of steam fine. I've considered adding either a motorised damper or a Thermobox but have never got any farther than that The MVHR is set up for slight positive pressure as there's a woodstove at the other end of the house. Only if the cooker hood is turned right up to boost does it actually attempt to depressureise the house, on all other speeds the extra air just freewheels the MVHR's supply fan as far as I can tell

purists be damned, I just extract for the short period that the wok is a-smokin.

Is that actuator being energised? Is it actually opening?

how/ why? Considering very few have an earth wire...

you might need a trap if there are LPG cylinders in the locality

are you on a pole transformer? Shared?

do you have cavity trays and weep vents?

there's no regulations per se, but the stove manufacturer will likely have a spec for diameter, maximum length and number of bends. It needs to terminate at the stove to attach to the spigot on it, and the section nearest the stove would need to be suitably heat-resistant (like any other items in the same area). It can take air from anywhere outside really but you need to consider water ingress and the likelyhood of obstruction/ blockage.

If the unit has a door, would a different colour of shelf really be that offensive? If no door, could you find a contrasting colour?

would it not work better if the blocks were lifted and the middle beam in the photo moved leftwards so the "landscape" blocks were to the right of it?

buffering through a gravity cylinder? I wouldn't, even just gravity DHW would be enough to put me off... I did it the other way round as a TS to give boiler stove redundancy. No legionells risk either as no stored volume. Check out for example- https://copperindustries.co.uk/products/maxipod/ although many other manufacturers can offer the same now too. I had a bespoke one made up by World Heat

would the two capped-off valves that just need a flexi fitted between them not be a good start?

need to slacken the right nut to let the fitting rotate, tighten the brass fitting, then nip the nut up again

that awkward age between 0 and grownup, lol. 17, first year of the A-levels. ADD with history of getting bored with stuff quickly so sensible budget, say £200-ish.