dpmiller

yep. one big bath towel...

you generally put two hoses into the plenum of one inlet/outlet if the duct run is long

defo sounds like refrigerant lines heading into the house...

is that T&E? I'd be replacing that...

maybe just buy one and then overclad the front to your preference? I dealt with C&S in Tullamore and they were very good, they make up their own panels with a shiplap style

same difference really

the perimeter of the cassette has a wrap of membrane pre-fitted before being craned in. It sits on the lower flap of membrane and then the upstairs wall panels sit on the upper. These flaps of membrane are then ready to be taped to the VCLs. Externally, the upper wall sheathing is draped down over it all and stapled to the lower sheath. In our case it was heavy gauge polythene, you can see it hanging down in this image. All the upstairs studs had a similar strip of poly over the top of them for the ceiling VCL to attach to.

to lap round the floor cassettes, at least that's how ours were done

looks like the door won't open much past 90deg so do you *really* need to move the hinge point?

If you're doing a lot of blasting, would a honking big diesel compressor (like a towable ex-council tarmac one) be worth considering?

McKinstrys are in a big way of going for Biomass, prety sure they'll take all and any timber

Always remember guys that "UK" rules are often really only GB... @Kevan Marshall whereabouts are you, and have you done any heat loss calculations yet? We've a great tool ( Jeremy's) on the site that many have used to get a grip on energy requirements

unless it came with a certificate, this is false- for any equipment.

have you space to batten that side wall out an inch or two, and shift the tray over a bit? Does the selected tray's waste have multiple outlet points?

things are different in the US...

Digger and dumper combo for me- 3CXs are great but not so much if the ground is soft or you need into a tight corner

DHW is called based on cylinder temp, so just put the setpoint to below ambient?

I wonder what effect the heat and cool links have on DHW control?

I've used Inkbird DIN-rail controllers a few times and they're good kit.

Yep, ours is running in cooling mode currently

didn't we have a discussion on this in the past week?

you told a supplier how much money you had to spend? Ouch.

are you absolutely sure the fault is in the cable rather than the light? the windy-on plastic things are called "wire nuts" and we're not in the US so you'd be better off thinking about Wagos...

timezone can work two ways- full on/off, or programmable setpoints. Enable it only for setpoint, then add whatever timezones you need in C105-108. I *think* that these setpoints are then fed into the WC, but I'm not sure if they act as a minimum or maximum...

there's a bit of blurb in the v6.6 manual- and IIRC something slightly more detailed bit chenglish in the original Sprsun manual. But broadly, Day mode allows use of the full performance envelope, Night caps it for low noise, and low is weather comp. However, even the non WC modes throttle compressor speed based on ambient temp so... what might be useful for you is U02- startup differential and shutdown differential. They control how much below setpoint the unit starts, and how it slows down as it approaches setpoint.