dpmiller

the bubbling and splashing are both louder than the pump. Remember the pump (which is quiet already tbh) is sitting on a foam pad inside a sealed housing, under a double-skinned manhole cover...

that's the point, we *don't* put the render against the window, we already have the upright DPC there as a barrier... edit: and remember also it's a check reveal so there's less exposed frame to work to

those fittings are nowhere near 28mm...

careful... Caravans need careful consideration re. earthing @ProDave?

all those elbows on the back if the unit will be adding massively to restriction

where in the world are you?

Is the bathroom upstairs vs the kitchen?

Never bothered to calculate it tbh as it's a faff with no heat meter. We're on an E7 tarrif and timings are suited to this- just over half our total consumption is overnight. YMMV It's a Worldheat 270l cylinder with two 3m2 coils- bottom for ASHP and top for DHW. I've also got a boiler stove to the body of the TS. Two immersions, both on a diverter. House is a mix of UVH and rads, two TMV manifolds. But... ALL ASHP flow passes through the bottom coil so the TS plays like a big buffer tank- even with DHW heating turned off on the controller, in the winter the tank would stabilise at about 40c/ whatever the heating flow temp is at that time. I do run the diverter on Boost for an hour in the mornings- this stops defrosts during the early morning underfloor heat periods as the system doesn't have to switch to the higher setpoint and negates some of the COP loss. Worth noting that an advantage of the CE diverter over the previous iBoost for this is that the CE one *only* boosts the upper immersion whereas the iBoost would have swapped down to the lower one once the top was satisfied. I don't even disable the boost in the summer now as if the tank is still hot overnight, no boost actually happens... Daily reheats varies massively on the weather- a bit of sun and the top of the tank is at 65 or more, full summers day and whole tank is at 90. Could be no reheats during the day, or three or four. For the first couple of years I did monitor daily and overnight consumption closely but can't be bothered now as the house is toasty all the time and the bills are barely more than for our previous house which was a third of the size. Something like 2000kWh for all heating and hot water during the winter quarter.

Mine's a bit different as I'm heating a TS and the probe is halfway down to hold a body of water at temperature- setpoint 50, difference 1.0, stop 0.5. This actually means the top of the tank ends up at 55 (5c Dt), but the HP cuts in before DHW cools off appreciably for more-or-less continuous hot water *or* a reheat cycle of about 30mins each time.

Will there not be gable ladders anyway? Surely you can loose the difference there...

I'd expect a composite door to come in it's own frame?

temp difference= hysteresis. reduce that a bit it'll cut back in sooner stop temp difference is an allowed overshoot, more useful for heating as gives more time for the unit to ramp down without shutting off immediately

User Mask, unless you're using time controls in which case it's in Timezone

which machine, and do you mean the actual setpoint or do you want to recalibrate the probe?

assuming the thermometers are both reading correctly, that should be a toasty hot floor...

no purge cycle or anything like it on the iVT. Yep just fire it up and your bottle valves will sort it. Only open the isolators on the UFH manifold when you're sure the hissing has stopped tho... / worst that can happen is it trips a flow error

Another vote for a wee splash of glycol, here.

didn't @Conor do this?

they have their uses. Do you need to silence the actual airflow, or isolate pipe lengths from each other to reduce propogation? Quite different requirements...

Had something similar a couple of months back on our Coolenergy unit- one of the three spade connectors on top if the compressor had loosened and burnt. The codes on the Carel unit were for starting fail and overcurrent which had me fearing the worst- shorted windings. Might be worth a peek under the plastic cover atop the compressor...

push them in afterwards

^ electronically commutated, no capacitor. Doesn't look like it's got any unblocking mode unlike many modern pumps that'll attempt to shake themselves loose if the rotor can't move?

what type of pump is it- fancy multimode thingy with digital display, or old tech with a 3-speed switch and a starting capacitor? Is the water well inhibited?

I'll throw a curveball. 9kw ASHP plus thermal store, thermistor probe halfway down the tank...

umm, that's probably more like 3.5Ah. I've just bought a motorcycle battery about the same size and weight..