dpmiller

I went the 50mm EPS route, and found there was no cost difference to go for the premium graphite variety (which is thermally a useful amount better...)

Are you in a Radon risk area?

SBS kit for me.

or run a neat line of silicone in the offending area, to the outside of the blade, to act as a dam.

if it's 8mm pipe, then either an 8mm stop end for the pipe or a plug for the pushfit. If in doubt, remove the pushfit installed for a closer look at it, just in case an 8-6 reducer has been fitted. It's definitely metric tho, as imperial JG fittings are beige.

8mm OD if it's the same as mine.

they may be talking about commercial ringmains, that often run at far higher temperatures.

how many different phone or cable services has the house had over the years?

you can get special flexible plastic combs with tooth pitch to suit evaporators etc, so you can remove the bulk of the crud mechanically

Dunno what kind of cars youve been looking at but that aint accurate in my experience- that's 65A you're talking. Cite a source? No, a more resonable guess would be right at the 200w mark, and often much less eg from Spal, a well-known manufacturer to OE and Motorsport https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201955247521

how many watts do you think a car electric fan is?

Coil. It's brave size, 3m2/ 42kW. The heat pump coil is the same size.

ASHP takes the tank to 48c, then the top immersion pushes it up farther. But 48 is enough for the tempering valve on the tank to be active and the DHW to be verging on uncomfortable

replace the socket with a fused spur and it's all good.

There's only a certain about of excess to divert tho, so I'm trying to make the most of it. You ask a good Q tho... Specifically, I've a DHW coil at the top and an ASHP coil at the bottom, and the cylinder is sized such that the top is big enough for a good shower and the bottom can act as a buffer for the heatpump.

I've two immersions in my TS, and an iBoost diverter that runs both. Upper one is at a low-ish temp and when it is satisfied the diverter swaps to the bottom one with it's stat maxed out...

Yes. For many years I had a home brewed panel on the roof connected to the DHW tank using a solar pump (like the Solartwin scheme). The panel was a roughly 5' square patch of DPC with 8mm black tube ziptied to it in a zigzag. This sat in a panel with twinwall roofing as front and back. And yes it worked very well. Pain it black and put it in a box, make it look a bit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255244395162 or buy an Intex mat for a bit more surface area https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154993208894

I could've sworn I'd posted a while back on voltage monitoring but I can't seem to find it now. I had on loan (for a job) a Fluke VR710 voltage logger. While setting it and it's software up I had it logging down at the house for a few days. Conveniently these were very sunny days. There are five properties on our pole transformer, four of which have 3-4kW solar. I'd need to hunt out the log files- they're on the computer down there- but I was surprised just how tight the voltage was clamped.

have you discussed this with the BCO?

corrosion, but it pretty much wipes off. Suspect their flap wheel has some mild steel residue on it as only refinished surfaces show it...

It's a disappointing situation for sure, but I'm confident that they want it back for good reason. I'd be pushing for a swapout if they *are* needing to sit in front of the unit for diagnostic or research purposes.

and remember we do check reveals over here like Scotland so make sure you're sizing the right skin.

where are you living now/ what's it worth?

has the ambient temperature changed? Was the first measurement taken on a sunny day? Pressure will fluctuate with temperature regardless of heat source

A detached boiler house would be a building but I'm not sure a galvi box would apply. Personally I'd fit one, before the filter and any flexihoses. You could always ask your friendly local OFTEC bod at a pinch...