dpmiller

so are you Crystal Palace then?

I guess I don't understand why you haven't just done it yourself if you know all about how to do it?

@beebee you might have a chat with Shaun at www.irish-house-plans.ie. He's a bleedin good designer and might well be able to assist rationalising things a bit, not hard to pay either.

you'd need about 11cm *in front of* the retaining nut

Yep, we've three Yonos and they're *very* quiet. Standard length variant would be: https://www.bes.co.uk/wilo-yonos-pico-25-1-6-central-heating-pump-20460/

If the MCB (r/h trip) is going it implies a *real* fault. What rating is it and exactly what is on that circuit? Are the cable joints/ JBs between here and where the appliances are?

Bear in mind that the summer bypass is a thermal wax-stat which takes a number of minutes to change state and the stroke of the actuator is only a few mm. I'd opine that if you can "feel" cold air but the house is still 20 degrees-ish the airflow may be a bit high. What % is the airflow at? What size is the house? is the heater bank ONLY controlled by a manual switch?

I'm doing basically this in our thermalstore/ ASHP/ UFH + rads scheme; ALL heating flow passes through the TS bottom coil so the bottom of the tank is at least at low-temp rads temperature. I then bypass the heating loops to switch to DHW production when necessary.

and someone on the inside who has for the sake of argument collapsed against the door, can be accessed and assisted.

the socket is just clipped into the panel; remove the panel to see if you can unclip it and then probably enlarge the hole a little to let the socket come out through, then the plug and socket should be able to sit flat. Unless the socket is mounted on a pcb of course...

certainly for the GB to NI jaunt, many pallet companies don't have the ability to ship to an address that doesn't have an EORI number. The legislation OTOH allows for private individuals to receive goods *without* said number...

Are the flow and return from the heat source reversed?

if you've had a final inspection, what do you need BC for?

looks like they're maxed-out already. How much flow do you need? Can you turn the pump up or decrease a bypass?

you'll be pushing heated water out of the store when it expands tho?

there's a damper or restrictor either at each room terminal or in the manifold. Have you bothered to look at any suppliers websites yet?

our IZI is a pretty massive helix of 10mm copper inside the drain pipe and the cold feed to the mixer goes through it

All depends what embedded BMS (if any) there is.

"no build announced" for us, which is laughable because BT have already washed their hands of the area and it's part of the Project Stratum initiative. Even moreso as BT have ceased new copper lines at the two local exchanges...

how much is this bargain battery costing?

James McGregor in Belfast harbour estate would've been my first thought, but they're now part of Murdocks I think now?

I'm going to throw in a hearty recommendation for www.voipify.net, their service is excellent, prices are good, and I had no problem with the porting.

I believe you can buy it outright without a sub, but no idea what it does without one.

It wouldn't be my cup of tea, but this exactly what the Sky Glass device purports to do. All channels, all off the internet.

I'm gonna channel @Nickfromwales just for a moment and ask you to check whether the arrow on the pump body is pointing the right way up?