dpmiller

For now, BT still cling onto the old geographic rules. One of the reasons I went 4g was that with VOIP I could retain the number, whereas BT refused to let the number even move between sub-exchanges in the same main exchange group. Irony is, now that the number is ported to voip, it could in the future be ported back to BT *anywhere* in the UK...

openreach no longer offer copper at either of our local exchanges and fibre is looked after by a 3rd party who hasn't completely trunked our road yet. Plus, fibre installs are subsidised under Project Stratum but the area was surveyed prior to our build So 4g it is, for us. the router and voip box are both on UPS, and my old landline number is now safely transferred to VOIP and in my ownership

flow gauges act as a coarse NRV do they not?

I've got a couple of Tapo cameras and they've got an rtsp livestream that you could pipe into another recorder/server; I just monitor it on a couple of windows in VLC. Is the same possible with these brands?

NTC sensor + 8m of cable = profit. / in other words, just extend the cable...

why not tho? Seemed like a no-brainer as the wiring was going past a zero-volt relay contact... /if it does ever go off at least I know the emptied property is being purged.

@JohnMo I never said anything about staying in the house...

On the fire/ smoke side of things, will the Aicos all be wired interlinked or will you be having any on wireless? Do you have any need for CO monitoring? gas hob/ woodburner/ whatever? Whilst we're on wireless, I've used an Ei414 fire alarm interface for two functions- MVHR off during fire alerts MVHR boost during CO alerts.

the temperature calibration will alter a wee bit, but as the cylinder isn't running too hot and there's no big current being switched there's no safety implication IMHO

^ to avoid any ambiguity, @Conor has a sensor in the buffer that was supplied with the ASHP, some brands don't have this option. I'd suggest if you want to have a thermostat on the buffer, simply putting it in series with the demand signal from the wiring centre might work for your case? If either heat demand or buffer are satisfied the the ASHP will be commanded off, and it'll only come back on again if you still need more heat *and* the buffer has cooled.

Certainly with NIEA, the process is simple and we had no difficulty discharging into an open field drain which leads directly to a RAMSAR/ ASSI/ AONB zone and the site itself is within the AONB

is it glowing?

used to be a creamy beige back a lifetime ago

thanks guys. @nod Blackstone or Ironwax Gloss?

if we knew what it was then...

anyone? @PeterW @nod

they defrost when they need to. If it's iced up sufficiently that the fan can't pull fresh air through, it needs a defrost. Simples. You absolutely *can* get your LWT over 45c, but you'll need to reduce your energy demand to allow it to happen... / I can make mine ice up and need defrosts at around the same intervals, yes. But only by starting it from a cold house, in DHW mode, but leaving the CH circuits open too.

what's wrong with the stuff you've already got, it's just the same?

you might need to lever pretty hard to get the horizontal to pull from the vertical post the first time- they're generally held by an O-ring or two and often a split steel ring. This is sprung, and may have eaten into the hole in the horizontal bar somewhat, taking more force to get it to pop over that lip

no you could dose the sealant in there

never mind all the SCOP numbers, how many kW is it actually rated for at the temp and flow?

So I've got some nice black limetone slabs that will be used as a hearth. Looking to get at least one coat of sealant on before laying, but does anyone have any recommendations for a really glossy wet-look finish? Thompsons Wet Look paving seal seems like a possibility (supplier-recommended) tho in the past I'd probably have ladled on good old Klear. Any other thoughts? edit: Should add, it's a riven surface, not smooth

what schedule is the heating on? 24/7 or something less?

repurposed routers here. Huawei 4g modem/router covers one end of the house , then an old Talktalk hub does the other, and a Draytek out in the garage. They're all joined together (along with all the house cat5 points) by a dumb switch in the plant room.

respectfully, if you're building YOUR house for YOU to live in, what the hell has the value or brand of kitchen appliances got to do with it?