dpmiller

I'd be adding a wee relay in there...

^ it's an app, but it plugs into a radar-like sensor. I've got one and it's very good. Pricier than it used to be tho... https://walabot.com/en-gb

or World Heat

look at this pic https://www.partscentre.co.uk/door-assembly-2860205400.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkICMnZVFWaJfB1ZGYXFo6XkRQZDO7HSfdD16M0NZoOx3dFpklQkSr0aAiZfEALw_wcB I think the spring's U should be to the outside of the latch

^ update on this. I was having issues with my iBoost running too hot and had to fashion an external fan to assist. heatsink all clean etc. So guessing a partial fail of the triac/whatever power device Ordered one of these Runhu units direct and have just installed it. Now, some reviews hint that it doesn't start diverting till a few hundred watts so I'll be monitoring more closely for the next wee while. But first impressions are that it's a bit different to the iBoost in that it doesn't run the fan during *all* divert, seemingly being temperature controlled. And it's a LOT quieter. Happy days, for now...

Even at- or slightly above- head height will be a lot better capture-wise than at ceiling level. Our kitchen has a range cooker across a corner at 45deg and out from the wall a bit. I selected the highest-flow island hood I could find for sensible money (an ElectriQ curved glass jobbie) and it works well for wok cooking even at 800mm off the hob.

make/ model?

spring is back to front or needs preloaded into place

where is the 110 going- could you put a back-inlet trap just outside the house?

often the notch/nick in that nut would denote it being left-hand thread at that end

what is the return temperature from the loops?

So now we *need* a topo survey and to hire a fancypants modern machine with full-on GPS bucket system. How much extra will that be? Who will program the GPS and who is liable if it's done wrong?

^ can't disagree with @SteamyTea. It's why I reckon PHEVs are the way to go, and look forward to some slightly smaller examples hitting the market some day. Quick shopping trip/ commute? Battery power. Easy overnight slow recharge. Going on holidays/ away to see the inlaws etc? A nice clean ICE run in it's best efficiency zone. but the current strategy seems to be to make cars as expensive and feature-laden as possible to hide the cost difference of the hybrid and electric gubbins.

I'm running our ASHP off one of the Tuya MCBs and it reports nicely to SmartLife. Seems as accurate as the cheapo din-rail meter it replaced, and runs cooler too.

oddly enough if you look at the Joule website, Kodiak has an internal 2-port valve? More investigation might be required... https://www.jouleuk.co.uk/products/kodiak-pre-plumb-ie/

nylon or polyethelene most likely

It aint PTFE pipe and that colleted ebay fitting isn't the right job. as they say above, flick the blue lock collar off and depress the ring just like any other JG fitting... Oh and the fittings unscrew from those filters so you can swap'em onto your choice of BSP ended filters.

I'd crack on getting VCL/insulation/PB up personally, you don't currently have "normal" conditions yet?

take a photo of the tank for us plz

before you give up, try reversing the tube end-for-end and re-try. Don't ask why...

might be a zone valve closing down and obstructing the flow, prior to the pump turning off. An auto bypass valve would help here?

Those Danfoss coils are quite unreliable. They're quite small for a mains coil... They were hard to get for a while and I found that the coil out of a washing machine inlet valve was a physical fit

I built our hearths straight off the subfloor in thermal block.

And... (now that I think about it) Get the literature for that exact controlbox- they come in many configurations- There might well be a list of faults that take it straight to lockout, and there may be a way of getting blink codes out of it too

^ photocells, control boxes, and oil solenoid valves all have a terrible habit of failing intermittently. A clean photocell is a good start, but I'd expect that to cause a near-immediate lockout. Beyond that... can you view the flame any way when it's running? IE does it go out then trip Does the sound change in the seconds before it trips out? Motor slowing down, squealing or a click Does it go *straight* to lockout or does it retry once first? Have you confirmed the supply voltage isn't dipping because of an external issue? If it doesn't attempt a re-start at all I'm going to suggest controlbox. Pop it open if you're brave and have a look for dodgy capacitors and dry joints, give any accessible relay contacts a wee clean