dpmiller

step away from the push-fit connector...

and using a diverter (no battery in play and only minimal PV) can modulate the excess power in a way that an ASHP can't. No start/stop issues...

they do?

is it actually filling with water?

depending on probe placement and hysteresis values, shouldn't reheat be ocurring by then?

^ what's the fitting on top of the bottle and where does the copper pipe go?

no, it's "effective power" rather than real pressure as I understand it. Look at the difference in build between (say) a power washer and the hydraulic system on a digger, the main pressure on my Takeuchi is 200bar but the hoses are rated to 700bar vs our Karcher's lance hose rated to 145... or maybe there's just no safety factor built in to domestic washers.

So the Runhu's timer is slightly simpler than (eg) an iBoost. Whereas the iBoost has a weekday/weekend timer, the PVmate only has a 24hr timer but with either you can set grid boost times to your preference, up to three periods per day, yes. The downside of a single immersion is (obviously) that once that is satisfied, there's nowhere else for the energy to go. /we have a TS with 2 immersions. The system happily boosts and diverts on the upper element until it's satisfied, then switches to the lower one with a higher 'stat setting, to soak up the maximum PV when available

they don't pump at 3000psi tho, that's the pressure measured at the nozzle...

should the reservoir have a vent/ hole in the filler cap?

what does it say on the box? There are generally storage conditions listed. But the average warehouse/ back of a curtainsider overnight aint going to be warm and toasty...

can someone explain this one to a simpleton please?

shouldn't that be shoot> recover> bag> sell in pub> return all smiles?

no they just had them branded. The manufacturer's mark is DL

take an hour or two off.

I'd be adding a wee relay in there...

^ it's an app, but it plugs into a radar-like sensor. I've got one and it's very good. Pricier than it used to be tho... https://walabot.com/en-gb

or World Heat

look at this pic https://www.partscentre.co.uk/door-assembly-2860205400.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkICMnZVFWaJfB1ZGYXFo6XkRQZDO7HSfdD16M0NZoOx3dFpklQkSr0aAiZfEALw_wcB I think the spring's U should be to the outside of the latch

^ update on this. I was having issues with my iBoost running too hot and had to fashion an external fan to assist. heatsink all clean etc. So guessing a partial fail of the triac/whatever power device Ordered one of these Runhu units direct and have just installed it. Now, some reviews hint that it doesn't start diverting till a few hundred watts so I'll be monitoring more closely for the next wee while. But first impressions are that it's a bit different to the iBoost in that it doesn't run the fan during *all* divert, seemingly being temperature controlled. And it's a LOT quieter. Happy days, for now...

Even at- or slightly above- head height will be a lot better capture-wise than at ceiling level. Our kitchen has a range cooker across a corner at 45deg and out from the wall a bit. I selected the highest-flow island hood I could find for sensible money (an ElectriQ curved glass jobbie) and it works well for wok cooking even at 800mm off the hob.

make/ model?

spring is back to front or needs preloaded into place

where is the 110 going- could you put a back-inlet trap just outside the house?

often the notch/nick in that nut would denote it being left-hand thread at that end