AlSmith

Hi, Thanks for assistance and views, happy to close off as now rectified. The NIBE was in ‘away mode’ which I found under a sub sub menu, every day is a school day!

Just to clarify my last post, the NIBE has a variety of tweaks which affect flow rate, curve heating which is set to 6, point offset both outdoor temp point and change in curve are set to 0 degrees, lowest supply heating is set to 20 and highest supply heating set to 40 ( it’s connected to UFH) .

No haven’t tinkered with that yet, so still set at 0. The water behaviour changed after my unintentional reset but what I can’t be certain of is what the installer changed from factory settings (if anything). All I had changed thereafter was the curve, dependent upon whether we were at the house or down south ( we are only up sporadically so keep the bills down when not there) during all that time though the water was always a constant cycle.

Hi, I have pretty much got my GSHP working very well and balanced for heating but my water temp has suddenly decided to cut off when it reaches 40-44 Degrees. It used to cycle nicely between 50 and 55. The demand is set to medium and the installer settings are on at 40 and off at 55 but it only gets up to mid 50s now if I manually select ‘add hot water’ as a one off event. I did mistakenly reset the initial settings but have rest curve and checked demand so a bit confused now that it doesn’t get higher than 44 degrees. Prioritisation is set to auto, and when no heating demand water still cuts off at 44 ish.

Copper pipe goes to overflow bottle. Have now subsequently been advised against a pressurised system, as the deflation was initially caused by impact on the bottle (one of my tradesmen knocked it ) causing a brine leakage. Following resealing and cleaning up it doesn’t look good but is actually working as it should. Was advised the system would operate the same if converted to pressurised, adding extra maintenance and cost for no benefit. Happy to close off thread unless anyone has strong views on pressurised v not ?

I’m back up next week so will confirm the connections and their routes.

This is the reservoir, it has no fill point and will contract further with no brine left in it on occasion before refillling when system is not circulating

Hi, it looks like I have a negative pressure on my collector system causing the brine reservoir to suck in and empty when the compressor runs. I am being advised to change to a pressurised system by NIBE specialist, has anyone else done this? And if so did it fix the problem and what size of pressure vessel did you use? Many thanks

Just finished renovating a 140 yr old farmhouse with similar stone walls. We went for breathability throughout, cosy wool, membrane and lime plaster (internally) for all external walls. UFH via a ground source heat pump and very pleased with outcome. Decent heating bills and internal humidity is 40% average. Thought about tanking the house but very glad we let it breathe again after many years.

I used Buildstore for an uninhabitable property, they sourced through Furness Building Society. Interest only and after 2 1/2 yrs I converted it to repayment with them at far better rate. They were pretty cool with definitions of complete! Only borrow what you need in stages and minimal re inspection costs between draw downs. Insurance was quite pricey but worth the peace of mind.

HI, three years into farmhouse full renovation from earth floor upwards; GSHP, UFH, Pellet Cooking Range, Borehole, waste treatment plant. Happy to share my experiences and also seek help on some things to complete the project.