dpmiller

Sorry, I'm gonna be blunt here- if you welding aint great, don't practice on a safety device. Heck look a the price of the product is Onoff's link, it's not worth taking the risk.

Possibly a silly question but... Other than the maximum temp being capped at 40c instead of 60c and the lack of control for a 3-way valve, what are the differences between pool heat and home heating ASHPs?

A standard pressure jet burner (duno what Rayburn use these days?) shouldn't have a problem with 2m lift. The oil pump will happily pull from an underground tank. Pipe restriction/ entrained air may be more of an issue but there's ways round that.

what have you been quoted? Vent Axia's Kinetic Highflow will do 350m2. have a look here: https://www.bpcventilation.com/heat-recovery/full-diy

if you can produce a vacuum of some kind that might be worth a try too, pull the obstruction back. Know any aircon guys?

Impacts are less fatiguing to use at higher torque levels than a drill, you're not having to fight the torque reaction the whole time.

It just keeps on keeping on here. Shortly after the insulation touched down, the install team appeared. Two local chaps, and two Romanian brothers. The Romanian guys are stellar workers but together they all put a goodly number of evening and weekend man-hours in and insulation is now complete. Frametherm between the studs, foiled VCL, 40mm PIR, 50x35 service battens. Neat work. One of the Romanian guys- Marian- currently has no "real" job but on the basis of his work so far I'd be more than happy to let him loose on some other stuff. Infact, whilst I was considering hiring in a telehandler for a day to place the tiles "up above", he offered to shift them with some of his friends. Deal done, they arrived on Sunday morning past and in four hours handballed around seven tonnes of clay tiles up and around the scaffold. Now *that* was hard work. Respect. other bits and bobs? Finished the infill panels above the porch, fitted the continuous soakers there and did some tiling, and fitted the flashing to the Keylites. Fitted Compriband (well, Soudal stuff...) between window frames and sills. Amazing how slow it expands on a cold morning. And I've put in the earth rod and carried out a Ze test as we'll soon need to be getting the electric in. Happy with the result- 68ohms- much better than 200. Now to set the tiles out on the other roof faces and put up the GSE trays. Once all that is done I might just soldier on with the tiling, or I might see what big Marian and his mates think about it...

[cough] which merchant?

The guys at BPC did a design for me for a few quid against a future order ( gave the BCO a nice official drawing with flow numbers on...) and they got it pretty much spot-on. I'm doubling-up on the studs in two small wall areas to give the ducts ( and rising wiring and plumbing) plenty of space and moving one pair of ducts to negate boxing in but their 3d drawing is pretty close and darned helpful...

Unlikely to be furred up on this side of the Pond. Plus quarter turns don't work so good with low pressures. I'd dig out the box spanner...

both? Surely you'll need a polythene layer above the PIR regardless of where the DPM is. And what about Radon?

enough for a hat?

flow relative to outside temp, likely.

They're using SIGA tapes on ours, over VC Foil Ultra. The window tape is superb, really easy.

you might look at Kudos, TTFC, QTF, Kilbroney, Kingspan, or Leadon. Some have "book" designs, all will manufacture to your supplied plans. We went with Leadon and I'll give them a hearty recommendation.

Don't negate providers on the other side of the Irish Sea, they're not afraid to travel...

Yes, that's the standard way of doing it round these parts AFAIK. We'll just go with a flat UPVC board over the timber- colour matched to the guttering and windows- like Dave is doing but not just as deep.

you can put a strip of cement board on and render over it, we've just put a rough treated timber 4x1" as a backing board (which the gutter will mostly cover) and will render flush up to it, probably with a slim colourmatched UPVC fascia behind the gutter.

MgO? http://www.resistant.co.uk/products/moistsure/

A willis uses a standard immersion element and has a built in stat...

how do you fit and tighten those nuts in-situ with that bowl?? Looks like a broken wrist is mandatory...

just temperature, or a DIY weather station? You could do a lot worse than one of the FineOffset units (Maplin used to do them eg) and you can either just look at the display's trend analysis or use a software package like Easyweather or Cumulus.

you don't do much stirfry though Jeremy.

I must admit I'm of a similar mind to @scottishjohn and am focussing on a low-tech solution. The TS I'll be using (Harlequin Heatstream) has a C/O stat on each input coil and the coils are zoned within the tank. Between these, the microswitches in the motor valves, a couple of roomstats and (possibly) a cheap PID controller, I reckon there's plenty of options for marshalling energy in and out of the system...

250m2