dpmiller

^ or any other manifold, for that matter...

What advantage does the Geberit have over (say) a Wirquin lowprofile membrane unit? Other than the brand.

Is the 838 door opening wide enough for accessible entry?

Looks like it would be fine.

£382 if anyone wants one

2g UPVC £167/ m2 fitted inc. composite front door (3g glazed), pair of french doors, and partglazed back door.

graphite EPS is a fair bit better thermally, too.

likely first a faulty thermostat which caused the compressor to overwork and subsequently die...

Keylite are apparently to launch a hub & App setup shortly to integrate with their current remote system ( which is 3rd party but I've never got round to finding the OEM of), but I dunno what protocol .

ta

so are you saying @PeterW that one could justify not having access points everywhere because of modern tech? and what about the other Q.- OK to sink the joint into block or render?

Yup. I've an old pub bottle that the local fire extinguisher CO2 merchant refills for me. Works fine on mild, just a bit dirty.

First-fixing away merrily. As part of that I've got the PV on-line and today is the first full day of generation. The morning was pretty overcast but it looks like 0.8 kWh from 10-11, 2kWh from 1-2, and about 1.5kWh from 4-5. I'll see what it's reading in the morning but it managed 2 overnight last night (6pm to 10am) so that looks like it'll be 13 or so for the day. Any of the PV gods have an opinion on that performance?

Hobbyweld have a super service, well recommended.

So I've got two external soils rising to FF level. The main bathroom just needs to go 90deg into the wall, whereas I'm extending the ensuite one up as a vent even tho not strictly required on a treatment plant. Qs. Is there any problem with oversizing the hole in the blockwork slightly to allow the ringseal to sit into it ( the arm of a branch is slightly longer than the depth of a wallbracket, yes?) Would make for neat access to the bosses for basin and shower wastes to each side. and, do I want them as access? Not quite sure what the BReg document means by "Rodding points should be provided to give access to any length of branch pipe which cannot be reached by removing a trap" as I presume removing the pan connector to access the length from the top would suffice?

The decline of manufacturing leads to folk finding replacement occupations- bin washing, lawn mowing, handyman services, ironing. All on the rise locally and at prices that can't be lucrative (or known to HMRC I'd guess...)

I've a TIG set for my DC inverter and it's darned handy for light work. @AnonymousBosch I'd say that if you're asking the question, the answer is- get onto a general course that lets you try the different systems and see which suits you and your applications. I did a night course some years back just like this- gas, stick (MMA), and TIG, as well as brazing. TIG has more in common with gas welding or brazing than stick or MIG and if you can master the delicacy of TIG the rest are easy.

watch the gauge on the PRV while someone turns on the shower...

Had a couple of petrol flymos over the years. They're heavier to handle than an electric one and don't give the shortest neatest ever cut. But they will tackle anything you can get them to plough into.

if the steels are separate from his wall then they must sit on a footing of some kind surely?

I think @Brickie is referring to mixing clay commons in?

how long have you lived there already?

depends how much stone there is...

are concrete bricks not a thing on the mainland?

For our upstairs I'm piping from the downstairs manifold to a loop in the FF bathrooms, and prepping the bedrooms by running a loop from a second manifold (running at higher temp) to each room as well as adding a fused spur nearby. If I feel the need for rads the pipes will be in the stud wall ready to draw out and connect, else a small panel heater can hang on the wall. Not ruling out fan coils either. The higher temp manifold will also service towel rails.