dpmiller

^ I've one of those and it's great. Can't imagine doing full sheets of soundblok any other way...

pay someone else... seriously tho, do you mean lifter for ceilings or carrier to move sheets around?

Only the walls or do you have slopes and ceilings to consider? Our build is similar, but with the membrane under the PIR. Our walls were meant to be factory insulated but issues in the plant meant that they came to us bare and a squad was sent in to carry out the stuff/membrane/PIR/batten to all the external walls (we'd always expected to do the slopes and ceilings ourselves...) Between 2 and 4 men and over a few full days and a fortnight of long evenings as I recall, for 250m2 or so. Guessing 200 man-hours maybe?

yep

oil is only for tools. Plenty of places run un-oiled air, with the guys putting a drop or two into the end of the tool when plugging in. Or not... Your problem is probably that the air isn't getting a chance to drop the water out in the tank as the tank volume is small. A moisture trap will certainly help. Remember that big setups use a refrigerated dryer.

what's screwing into it? Flat faced or taper?

cheap tone probes work pretty well actually.

take the battery dimensions to your local motor factors.

Agree with @joe90 above, but am intrigued that this manufacturer offers a "silencer" to go between compressor and plant and wonder if the noise is something to do with the particular diffuser used in the brand. Our Solido has the pump inside a sealed capsule under the chamber cover but even with the lid off there's no noise similar to their video...

Thanks @dnb we already have around 3.2kW on the roof, on a Solar iBoost+ s yes, the summer is sorted.

I can't see a problem (other than overall DHW capacity) with just running the TS up to 55c or so on the ASHP, the COP is always going to make it a better bet than just using the immersion. There's only three of us in the house and only SWMBO has a morning shower. I'm figuring on heating the TS and UF loops on early morning E7 and then the tank will get topped up off PV during the day. Heat in the evening can come out of the TS until the temp drops far enough to bring the heat pump on again but for all the amount of heat the house will sup I don't expect to kill the TS in a couple of hours. Towel rads are just a convenience thing, they're on a separate manifold with TMV so they can be set on a timeswitch and again just sup a wee bit of heat out of the main loop, whether from the TS or the running ASHP Summer DHW will be handled by the PV diverter, allowing the ASHP to do slab cooling in terms of integrating the stove, that's all on the electrical side IMO. The Heatstream has an upper and lower coil and each coil has it's own stat fitted so not hard to control based on tank level. Plus the supply from the stove will have a pipe stat to enable the pump on the load unit. If the stove happens to be lit and adds heat to the TS then good. If not, it's not taking any heat out of the TS...

"scribing"

So general plan is: 250l Harlequin Heatstream TS, twin coil Approx 9kW ASHP Boiler stove, a Woodfire Passiv or similar, on a charging/load valve. Quench coil also. Depending on which calculator I use (Jeremy's, loopcad, other) heating load is somewhere between 3 and 6kW What would stop me from following the plan in the diagram below? Forgetting about the electrical (control side of things for now) the scheme should allow either DHW or heating to have priority and also be able to offer slab cooling, whilst using the TS to act as a buffer. Crappy paint drawing sorry.

spot the Ulsterism- "turn the big light on"...

PM sent

The chap that did my groundworks - a trusted friend I'd add- happens to be a baseworks contractor for H2, I could ask him if he fancies Crossgar for a run...

Looks more like uncrushed stuff as-dugout.. As Declan said, tell us where you are. There certainly isn't any shortage of trades round these parts.

Most car bodyshops will also do interior bits like this, and there are plenty of guys doing kitchen door respray/ refurbs.

no, you just leave the "IN" disconnected from L and then your dry contacts are "IN " and the next terminal. S! and S2 are remote switches, 240V in as triggers.

I don't care what shape it is, it's still the same tech- an edge-lit panel.

to the OP are you looking for focussed pools of light or diffuse light from above? If the latter, then the slim LED panels fit within the PB layer, but you'll need a bit of space above (slack membrane between joists) for the clips and driver.

Probably not as fire-rated means sealed in the event of fire, so often with vents and intumescent material

Dunno if the picture is accurate for the BPC item, mine don't have louvres and have a 10mm or so wire grid.

nope, normall isolators have an arrow on as the seal is only perfect in one direction.

or pipeslice the one directly beneath the isolator and stick a straight coupler on.