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dpmiller

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Everything posted by dpmiller

  1. can you fabricate a ring of something to fill the gap?
  2. fans need to be a close fit in their housing otherwise efficiency is reduced, the air basically recirculates.
  3. our guys did neither of those.
  4. Why would the TF company need mains power?
  5. certainly L&Cs take on hybrid is to switch from ASHP to the other boiler when ambient temp crosses a set point, it's configurable with DIP switches to temps betwen +5 and -5C. Presumably they reckon that the COP loss plus defrost cycling means the alternative fuel is cheaper in those circumstances.
  6. You know, I've just re-read your story and brief and it's amazing just how similar it is to ours. And this is what *we* ended up with. dorm093-350-Miller-NI-A.01.pdf dorm093-350-Miller-NI-A.02.pdf
  7. Some heatpumps have built-in control for the boiler using similar strategy. The Peak/ Lailey and Coates unit for example.
  8. You'll need to get a design SAP done for Building Control so that'll be a useful bit of modelling.
  9. thee are some good "book plans" out there to get you started. We used this guy http://www.irish-house-plans.ie/index.html Shaun is really good, he totally re-drew one of his base designs to suit our needs. he's got a wide range of examples and you might be able to find portions of some that suit.
  10. ^and it works. very well.
  11. Does the neighbour actually *own* the land? Can you check whether the properties are freehold or leasehold?
  12. BPC is in Northern Ireland. That's the UK y'know.
  13. Looks good. Those blocks look very like the Quinnlites we used and similarly we've had no issue- expressnails, Hiltis, screws all have gone in firmly without incident.
  14. But as inverters are current sources, trying to drive into what is basically an open circuit and minimal load would likely have the voltage swinging wildly. The mains supply isn't just for frequency control...
  15. why not just widen the current path into a driveway?
  16. you said " One advantage with a timber frame is if the seals become damaged or crack they are very easily replaced Unlike UPVC "
  17. I'm talking about upvc...
  18. door seals are easily replaced @nod you may be thinking of the glazing seals which may be co-extruded?
  19. https://www.oso-spares.co.uk/thermostats On the side of the tank?
  20. Our interlocking clay tiles are *very* slatey. https://www.lbsproducts.com/clay-tiles/interlocking-clay-tiles/snowdon-natural-black
  21. what's the logic behind that? Surely the charger's supply needs protection and and MCB is an MCB whether it's in the main CU or another box...
  22. Our open drain is wet in the winter, dry in the summer, and NIEA had no issue with direct discharge. As it happens we're discharging into our perimeter drain(does the other two sides of our triangular plot) so the plant is about 30m of perf pipe and drainstone away from it...
  23. Thanks for that confirmation. Time for the spinning lazer and the front door threshold to get friendly methinks. Dave, I'd leave it but the TF openings are pretty big and I need to get on with the PB.
  24. So I've got all the door linings in upstairs. Screed was down so easy enough to set a gap under the door and work to. Bog standard trenched linings from Howdens, so about a 20mm gap between door and screed. A mix of carpet and some kind of tiles will end up being fitted. Now for downstairs. Bottom of the sole plate is FFL but the subfloor height varies by perhaps 30mm around the house. Is FFL actually the top of any tiles or timber, or the screed below? Should I just put all the linings in level with the sole plate and expect the door to be really gappy until the final covering goes down (and insulation, and screed ) or set then down by some arbitary distance that allows for the final coverings? Level threshold at the front door obviously makes for a lack of adjustability here. thoughts please?
  25. what's the dark bit just above and left of centre? Looks a bit like a plug screwed in from here...
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