markc

Massive development not far from me, mostly 4 bed detached, virtually no rear garden, front is just tarmac for parking two small cars and gap between houses is approx 300mm … effectively terraced. Where do you put a heat pump?

I agree it should be openreach, when I wanted a new cable they told me it was mine from the pole so I would have to pay, so I did my own.

Hi, no regulations or even guidelines, no need for a slope as the wire sags creating a water drip point.

Any video? … share the £250.00 ? think I will be doing a happy dance once I find a suitable plot.

Blunted nails cut the wood fibres as they go so less chance of splitting but a much reduced pull out force, no problem in shear. sharp nails push the fibres aside and create more friction, but also increase splitting forces.

Never seen anything “off the shelf” I have seen dual face protruding windows done by taking one side off of a bay window with a base and top done as you would for a normal bay. I could see a manufactured unit being very pricey and a compromise, so I would definitely build my own if I needed one

Wouldn’t it just be an ordinary window mounted at an angle

Just re read the post, so the OSB isn’t sitting straight onto the 6x2’s ?? And you are packing off the 6x2’s to create the slope? In this case you have created a hell of a lot of extra work and materials and my last post isn’t right, unsupported 11mm OSB will sag and fail

2.75m span will be fine with 6x2 timbers. 11mm OSB is no good for walking on. Snow loads are distributed so no problem.

I would make it level with the outside but leave a gap filled with pebbles or similar as a water break

The obligatory scribing gauge, done on a shaper no doubt. I have a 8inch Oxford shaper that I hardly use but wouldn’t part with.

Good morning and welcome, yes a lot of knowledge and experience with heat pumps amongst members

When apprenticeships taught skills. we had a 20+ lad apply to work with us, 3 year apprenticeship, loads of qualifications in mechanical and electrical …. Never seen a lathe, had no idea how to grind a drill and couldn’t wire a plug ….all his electrical ‘training’ used wago’s ?

I was told the gaps are to stop wind blown water from rolling across the roof, the gaps force the water to stop rolling and head down hill towards the gutters instead of off the edge

Sarnafil S327 is a tough fabric, we have put up a lot of fabric roof structures made from it. amazing how much tension you can put into it. Doesn’t rip, no problem waking on it.

But stealing someone’s house isn’t ?

Hi, you could do that no problem. It’s outside, appears to drain ok, you don’t need a billiard table flatness and anything would be an improvement, … get on with it. if later on you find it sinking a bit then you can always rectify it.

No need for a Walker plate for small area, sledge hammer works fine, scaffold tube with a thick plate on the end is better. … old school but perfectly fine for small areas.

+1 on the above

Hi, I would definitely sort out the down pipes, get rid of the vegetation, seal any gaps etc. Where water looks to be coming out ... easier to see when raining. If the other side is a fence post I would take it off, seal any holes and re fix with spacers to allow air to circulate. Under door looks to be a bit raggy, but could be me looking on a small screen. Possibly scrape out any loose material and re point with mortar or sealant. Also clean underside of cill, there should be a groove to force water to drop off and not track back towards wall underneath the cill.

Left side is more than likely the down pipes. Right side looks like it could be a fence fixed to the wall, if someone has gone a bit OTT with a drill the fixings could be pulling water into the wall. Under the door I would say the fill is the problem, not shedding water and drawing it back under.

Yes no problem on a 7n block with 200 bearing

Ahh, single door will be fine

How wide is the opening? The lintel is going to be carrying a fair load so really should have been on decent pads

Far too much info