markc

Line pumping is “OK” for trench and bulk base filling but walls need to be done in lots of smaller layers and moving/holding the trunk would be horrendous and end up with lots of waste. if access is poor you need to rule out ICF and Sips as these need truck sized equipment.

600x600 beams is in the realms of multi story car park simply supported main beams, let alone ground beams. SE first, don’t build in problems and big overspends

Background or Ambient noise levels in what most people would deem a fairly quiet area is often around 65-70dB

Assuming your floor finish will be tiles or wood then very little lateral load on an internal wall as the floor finish will hold it in place. Good ole Ct1/OB1 etc will do nicely. and as the sole plate is above screed and UFH etc then no real need for DPC

For solid wood flooring then acclimatising or normalising is important, laminate it doesn’t really matter unless it’s coming from a sub zero warehouse into a hot dry room. During its life the material will likely experience wide temperature and humidity swings anyway. Main thing is to lay the packs down on a flat surface, do not stand up against a wall etc. in a commercial install the floor often goes from truck to laid within hours

Damp proofing companies always “tut and suck” then sell you whatever treatment you will buy regardless of wether you need it or not. A lot of “surveyors” are failed builders who know just enough to be dangerous and will always err on the side of caution in case you try to sue them. get a decent local builder to take a look (offering to pay for their time) to give you an honest opinion of the affected area and what the cause could be.

No real problem doing that, if you get any large weeds growing in the new excavation then dig them out. Water isn’t a problem

Weep holes just allow any trapped water behind the wall to escape, as you are using blocks a small (plastic conduit or even 15mm plumbing hep20/etc. is ok) spaced about 2m apart. Put foundations in, first layer of blocks, weep pipes,build rest of wall, pebbles or gravel at bottom behind wall for drainage and to stop weep pipes from blocking up) dpm up inside face of wall and then backfill compacting layers as you go

My experience omg! Been mixing and Laying concrete since I was about 8, built a two story timber frame building when I was 15 (with a 17 yr old labourer) since then I put up loads of steel and glulam buildings and then construction engineer/manager on bridges, football stadiums, underpinning, mining and and and …

The footings sound more than sufficient, the key here is the slope and what it consists of. If you have a smooth slope and simply fill it, you then end up with one wedge on the top of another putting a large side load on your retaining wall. I am presuming you will infill with old bricks/rubble etc. chew up the surface of the slope, cutting terraces is better but at least dig some small holes or indentations, this Allows the fill to get hold of the slope and resist its tendency to move downwards, also don’t forget your weep holes at the bottom of the retaining wall to allow water to escape

Wait for the idiots to call for a ban on PV

Good morning and welcome to you both, @Andy110769 2-1/2 years must have been tiring.

@LSB you break the tops of concrete driven or poured piles. Screw piles are different and each manufacturer has their own ‘head’ for their pile system.

Usually the tops of the piles are broken back to reveal the rebar rods, these are then integrated into the ring beam cages before poring

You have a whole square metre? My god man, that’s enough for a small mill or shaper.

They are being used much more now, the ‘mortar’ is glue so effectively the blocks rest on each other which means the bottom row must be flat and level because it is difficult to correct plumb as you build upwards

Hi, the mix is similar but as you are using it to form a finish or waterproof barrier then it’s render, mortar is the same stuff used to stick bricks or blocks together (although ‘stick’ isn’t strictly correct). As it’s a vertical surface and you don’t want it to sag, mix slightly on the dry side so it doesn’t slump

As above, don’t overthink, just do it. if you don’t have waterproofer already, don’t worry, bit of pva if you have it (also good to prime the hole for better stickage)

Hello and welcome, loads of information on here and it sounds like you will be able to contribute just as much. Quaint looking place you have there

Yes, ring them up and say a truck pulled it down

I had a very bad line, couldn’t get past the new router bit so I called from my mobile and told them a neighbour had cut the line while digging his garden. Engineer straight out (day after) saw it was an overhead line, asked what the problem was and quickly put a new cable in.

Good morning and welcome, what is the issue you have? Flat roofs fail for various reasons and done properly are nothing to be scared of.

As above, unless it’s a very complex roof or joins into an existing then a roof truss company can/will design the roof structure and give drawings and calcs (the design software spits this stuff out).

18mm is more than enough and moisture resistant for peace of mind. Also in case of leaks, seal all the edges with paint or varnish etc prior to fitting (paint the sides after).

I love my air fryer, I use it for just about anything small that would normally go in oven. Great for jacket potatoes, fat free chips (potato or sweet potato) even done small crumbles in it.