markc

Another project to start? Much more fun than finishing stuff 🤫

Don’t call it insulation, say you want to use a revolutionary lightweight structural block called EPS, give them the mechanical properties sheet (compressive strength) and say the idea is the isolate the structure from the horrible corrosive cold ground. if that fails go with @Thorfun and get another SE

Morning squire, right a chimney damper is good for reducing draw. if your fire is raging and bending bars then your combustion is too hot or fierce. Blocking the chimney won’t do it any good and a damper at the top is really bad .. you can reduce draw in windy area with a chimney that spays out at the top like the exit of a trumpet etc but You need to control air into the fire by restricting airflow - thicker bars to reduce air gaps, leaving ash in the bottom or even control fire temp with some green wood (this takes some practice so restricting combustion airflow is best).

Soot is a sign of poor combustion, no soot is a good burn. You won’t get stuck on “creosote” unless you are burning rubbish … (even then it won’t be creosote). Is it difficult to light? Or doesn’t draw well? Gas and oil burners pull in their own air (generally) due to pressurised nozzle effect. A wood burner chimney draw to pull in combustion air. It’s quite possible your chimney is too big or not enough air able to get in through bottom of the burner

Good evening and welcome, a vast amount of answers available with a search of previous threads and failing that, ask away

Nothing wrong with bending your own straps. 90 degree ones are usually used up a wall and over wall plate, twisted are up wall and onto side of rafters or bottom cords of trusses

Much better outside. A lithium battery fire is pretty horrendous very very much worse than a lead acid battery fire

Polished concrete needs a good bit longer than 1 day/mm or your surface a) won’t polish or quickly goes dull as the moisture keeps rising. I don’t have enough knowledge or experience to give you trade secrets just a few not too cracking experiences when jobs were rushed

Far too many variables to be accurate but £1250/sqm is certainly not extortionate

Given the digger bucket size, 175mm would make the most sense. ? Excavations will never be within or even near to 5mm tolerance. Yes to being careful and not needing loads of extra concrete but never dig undersize, a bit of extra mass fill is much cheaper and easier than going back to straighten or widen trenches

The OSB on a timber frame is most likely for wind bracing, not for making it sound or feel more solid.

Ahh, yes I see the rafters in the pic now

@Adsibob if you can live with the vertical timber then absolutely yes!

If you are not wanting to see the lintel or struggling for head height then a steel angle (galvanised) under the wall plate and up behind it would be neat. do you need a lintel? If the wall plate isn’t supporting anything at that point then it won’t need a lintel

@Adsibob assuming you could find the studs, your biggest issue would be cracking of plaster and punching through the PB at the heal of the bracket. Cantilevers are great but the moments (loads) involved are many times the load on the arm itself. A vertical timber fixed to a wall with shelves fixed to that massively reduces the point loads changing them into shear which PB can withstand much better than pull-out and compression loads

I can’t see why not, if the wall isn’t boarded yet then additional noggins inserted between uprights close to where the brackets would be fitted will stop and twisting tendency. (C and E sections twist twist inwards with localised bending moments

Sometimes 🤔

Yes but they tick the looney greenie boxes

Yes they are more than enough, as are M12 fixings. Space at 600mm ish between the joist locations

Vindaloo

Too much info 😳

Yes, glued and screwed

Great find, not worth making them for that price

I would say your Architect has drawn something that is almost impossible to achieve on site using bricks and being done by brickies. If you want equal gaps on an arch you would have been better with off site fabricated arches using individually cut brick slips on a concrete or similar backing. If you look at your drawing you will see every brick is tapered along its length and with an angle cut end and I haven’t measure them but probably drawn longer than bricks are available anyway.

UFH pipes should not be hot to touch. UFH is not like a radiator where you feel heat straight away. Plus an orangery! I’m assuming this has a lot of glass and very little insulation so you UFH is going to be pretty useless.