markc

That screams wet cavity insulation to me, is this on all walls or just outer?

cleaning the bitumen off is the hardest part, the pieces usually lift up with bits of stone or concrete attached that all need cleaning off. Sadly bitumen does not go well through woodwork machines so planing is out of the question.

It looks untidy as others have already mentioned. My concern is with the holes and voids. if water can get in, it will! Pointing is meant to prevent water getting into the brick/stonework.

I wouldnt give it 5 years. water will get into the voids and holes and blow out when it freezes. Badly done pointing is worse than non at all. Done well it should be raked out to a depth at least 3x the width and then forced back in to fully fill the recess without any holes or voids.

Cool window

DIY programmes ... lets just remove the chimney breast to make more space. Im sure there are loads of people that just dont realise the chimney on the roof is sat on the thing they are just going to remove. I've seen chimneys held up with a piece of ply to make bedrooms larger.

UC is Universal Column, they have a thick web to resist twisting and compressive loads and this makes them heavier for the given section. UB Universal Beams are designed for horizontal applications and have a much thinner web meaning they can be much lighter, less sag under their own weight and therefore support greater loads for the same depth of beam.

If the slab is still green then cutting channels is messy but not too difficult. Nailing clips to the slab with a nail gun isnt difficult ... easier than cutting channels

I am a little confused why they are using UC`s as beams?

Bottom cord is in tension so the whole cross section of material is loaded. Central holes are fine on joists and beams subject to bending stresses are fine because the top third (ish) is in compression, lower third in tension and the central area is only keeping the tension and compression areas apart.

Morning Paul and a very warm welcome

Get a 32 tpi hacksaw blade and you will be fine ... no pun intended.

my mitre saw is a 10inch blade and i think its a 60 tooth blade i have in it. Is the trim very thin material? if so then a multi tool will work well, just use a block to rest the blade on to keep it square - you can hold the blade against the block with your fingers .... weird sensation but works well .... please dont shoot me for vibration white finger infringements

Cutting aluminium is not that different to cutting timber. Use a fine toothed carbide tipped blade and feed the cut in gently. I often cut large sheets of aluminium using a cheap circular saw and always cut Alu profiles using an ordinary wood blade in my mitre saw.

If you have them, its a good idea to keep them for a while in case of future problems - very unlikely but sample cubes make good evidence.

Unless the slab will be subjected to some very high point, pull-out or bending loads (large cantilever) then no reason for testing.

If the pan is to sit on the floor then no frame required. A simple hidden cistern is needed.

Thats in better condition than many of the hire machines .... and it starts! ... lucky bugger.

I would say "get a cat" b ut my girlfriends cat catches mice and birds, doesn't hurt them and brings them into her house and lets them go., Catching and `putting out into the cold` is almost a weekly activity.

Yes i reckon its a fixing, i fitted it on an angle to the wall ... similar to a corner unit, probably one of the slotted fixings moving a bit.

oh, be careful with depth of digging out - Victorian houses usually had very shallow stepped footings which are often only inches below the cellar floor level.

Octopus installed my 3 phase smart meter for free in Barnsley - i already had the cable into the cellar but no 2nd or 3rd meters.

Geberit frame is great .... which reminds me i must cure the creak mine has developed as everything has settled.

Good morning and welcome. Cellars were built to be cold and damp .... a railway modelers and model engineers nightmare. Dig out some of the floor, sand layer (blinding) DPM (Damp Proof Membrane / plastic sheet) insulation and then concrete or the flags if you have them. plus some background heating.

Edge shots! happens (with air guns) a lot when you are holding the trigger and bounce nailing. get too close to the edge and they go straight through. We were trebling up some trusses on trestles when my brother got a rebound from thge floor and embedded a couple of inches into his A*&e cheek. Really funny watching someone pull a 4" annular ring nail out with a claw hammer.