markc

Very old uneven wall under the plasterboard so i inserted a plywood `plug` to give the screw shanks something to bear on otherwise the screws would have bent and torn down through the PB

It wont clog up, give it a go. Secret is to hold the grinder steady (no need to squeeze it or fear it) and let it glide through the material at its own pace. Takes a bit of getting used to but you will wonder how you ever got on without one.

@zoothorn yes diamond blades are flat, they will not sit in the middle guard and thats ok .

20kgs is very light as rads go, i have one in my kitchen that weights around 80kgs full and it is hanging on 4no 10 screws. plate gauge really doesnt matter as you are nowhere near the capacity of steel in shear.

i reckon that is a surface water rodding point, still seems an odd location tho

With pozi joists the top and bottom cord are deep enough to accommodate decent length screws so you shouldn't break through into the voids

Couldnt agree more, ive been involved with some major building projects where the waste angered me ... Truck loads of bricks being unloaded from the trucks straight into skips because of a design change or over ordering. and now involved with Railways where many projects are cost plus (to save money) but the contractors throw loads of unnecessary plant, materials and equipment plus labour on site because they will get paid for it plus a mark up.

Furring strips can be any length, what are you trying/wanting to do? and when you say calcs for flat roof, do you mean the fall required to allow water to drain?

That would be fine, Radiators are heavy but they are close to the wall so most of the load is down and not pulling on the wall (unless kids use them as climbing frames). These plates would certainly help to transfer the load.

Unless your walls are absolutely perfect you will end up with at least some of the units pulling forward anyway. 10mm forward is nothing and wont affect the worktop

So true, everybody wants to help others get on the housing ladder .... unless its going to affect them. Put interest rates up, saving is profitable again, house prices come down because borrowing is more expensive.

As you say, 20mm of Insulation isnt much and 20mm of self leveller over that is likely to break up. +1 to Peter`s idea

Dont know anything specific regarding Habito but the space at the bottom depends on location. Ground floor, concrete, kitchen etc. where water could be present then generally lift clear. Office space with raised floors etc. generally have the PB touching the floor .... makes for an easy install again

Too many variables and lack of info to give any meaningful answers but the first step would be to gain access to the roof space and determine exactly what is there, condition of timbers etc. Then there are loads of different methods and products available to proceed with the works and/or pricing etc. some photo`s and more details would help

Yes! makes for a very quick install on job-and-knock or price/metres jobs.

An accountant will have no idea who you are, what you have been doing etc. So they will want you to pull all your receipts together, explain what they are for, how you paid etc. so basically you will do all the work needed for the reclaim and pay them to do the addition and form filling.

I believed i had registered several times, even had a confirmation email. While badgering Barnsley Planning i was informed of the register, told them i had registered several times over the last few years - sorry, we cant find your name anywhere, but you are on the register now!

Done right, metal stud walls are far superior to timber .... i emphasize Done Right! If you know where stuff will be hung later then add some timber noggings either into the frame of tacked to the back of the PB. or use self tappers straight into the studs (easier to find than wood). Badly done walls are thrown up without fixing the studs properly (rely on plasterboard) and they rattle!

I would say yes, much easier and cheaper to have a simple shape during install.

Grids or hedgehogs depends on what the problem is in your area. Both keep out leaves and mortar etc. but if there is a lot of airborne dust then hedgehogs tend to collect this and prevent it being washed along the gutter. Ideally hedgehogs sit quite high to allow wind to clear dried leaves etc.

+1 on the above

I reckon the membrane was tucked under the grp after install.

I had an odd shaped bathroom so i used two seperate heat mats connected to one controller with one heat probe. The mats are simple two wire units so no problem connecting several small units.

Leave it as it is, it will weather down and you will forget about it.

They can be cut to length and use seperate pieces to make up the T shape - easier if you buy seperate smaller kits and just run them off one controller and thermostat. Do not over-lap them and do not heat where the floor will be covered by rugs or waste bins or cupboards etc