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ChrisM85's Achievements


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  1. Hi all, sorry for the delayed response its been a busy few weeks. It worked anyway. I scraped the excess hardwood back with a fresh Stanley blade until the delamination would push down without resistance. Then I got a pic under the delamination to lift it just high enough to fit a 14 gauge blunt needle under and filled the cavity with cascamite. I then pushed it down wiped off the excess with a damp ragand weighed it down with a piece of damp first layer, then a 2"x2" tile with four 7n blocks on top for 24 hours. To finish it I'll rub a small amount of adheasive (same colour as the floor) into the slight gap but it's hardly noticeable then rub it down with a damp cloth. Worked a dream. Thanks all for your input.
  2. Apologies been held up will be next weekend
  3. The minimum setting on my TMV for the manifold is 25° with max being 55° I believe. Assuming the FFL surface temp would be between 10-15° lower then the water in the UFH pipe I guess at a final set point of 40° but that's a guess.
  4. Noted! Thanks for your advice. I'll report back at the weekend.
  5. Could anyone advise what temp they have their UFH set to? Floor instructions say max wood surface temp of 29° so was going to gradually ramp it up week on week and use thermography to check.
  6. Its been down around 1 month in the dining room with the fault pictured and 2 months in the lounge where the other similar issue is. Banging did cross my mind but the delamination are in an area away from where installation stress would be applied. The instructions say to hammer into place when fitting although with it being wood there's only do much hammering one dare do so shouldn't imagine I was overzealous. They won't push back down as it feels like it's expanded slightly so slightly overlaps the next plank. I've orded some cascamite for thrus/Fri delivery with a view to shave excess hardwood off the side dbthe swollen plank using a fresh blade, then injecting some cascamite and weighing down using a 3x3" square of wood with a few breeze blocks on. Wish me luck, and any opinions or direction is welcome.
  7. Slab is existing dry slab and screed was down around 2 months before flooring went down for reference. All flooring was in the rooms for weeks prior works.
  8. After fitting it I belive it isn't possible to fit this floor floating the glue is defo required. There's two areas have popped. One as pictured and the other halfway down a board. The supplied has said either too much moisture or over hammered into place at installation, both wrong I feel. Any suggestions on repair would be apprecate. Thanks all for your input
  9. Same here approaching 70% in the house but my understanding of glued engineered wood is that all movement should be negligible hence safe for UFH and kitchens. Should have put cheap laminate down never had issues with it in the past lol
  10. I hope your right its stressful not knowing to what extent this may manifest itself. Thanks for your help
  11. That was next on my list. Had the magic man to repair some veneer fire doors at work and he did a grand job tbf. It's called invisible oil finish so can't see any and it acts like it hasn't been treated probably just seen me coming haha
  12. Not the response I was hoping for. Its been down around 1-2 months at present I hope these two areas are the total damage. Sickening when you pay so much for a floor and this is happening. Thought I would trim the wood with a knife on the tight edge and inject wood glue to try and re fix the hardwood that's delaminated.
  13. Hi Mark Yes I left a circa 20mm gap around the room. The flooring was in the room for around a week and we have UFH in the adjacent room but have a expansion gap between the two rooms and the floors is suitable for UFH. Its concrete underneath which we primed with a grit primer and self levelled with mapi. The floor was sold as herringbone and we used the T&G when fitting. Thanks Am stumped.
  14. Hi all, we recently installed a herringbone engineered oak floor in the downstairs of our home. We primed and levelled sub-base and glued it down with appropriate fixable glue. In the last week two joints have popped up and the hardwood has delaminated from the engineered base. Can anyone advise what's going on? The rest of the floor is great and I'm sure we have done a good of installation, even checked all instructions numerous times abd YouTube tutorials to ensure we havnt missed anything. Thanks in advance.
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