tonyshouse

I don’t like the sole plate or the thermal bridging it brings. I have had this before and suggested that condensation may happen on top of the dpc, not good . I would analyse the thermals and do something to mitigate before building

Insulation needs to be hundreds of millimetres thick to be compliant with regs, useful for future proofing and to make ant sense sustainability wise.

Go for the goodwill route if at all possible

I always built insulated floors with the membrane on top of the insulation, warm side, acts as a combined dpm/vb then - never had a problem except with occasional building inspector

Way OTT, hopefully a printing/nomenclature error - can’t see what the toe is doing either. how will you insulate it?

Compact will generally equate to less efficient and quiet to mor expensive

Trouble is that the world isn’t perfect, base, sub base and underlying ground can be not fully compacted, heavy vehicles can apply uneven loads, corners snap off, in the real world there are lots of cracked concrete and printed concrete driveways, patios and paths. Always looks good when new, but not after a dig, trench or repair

Insulate and shade windows externally

Genvex for me

Almost impossible to repair and prone to unexpected cracks

Answer is no! Just walk around your area and look at what they look like after a few years, ripples, weeds, moss, determination

Moss is a problem on all roofs, not sure if copper strip will do it evenly as water doesn’t run very evenly

I would ask about notching the top of the position joist or redesigning them to be 225 high where they go in the wall. Unlikely but theoretically possible love the idea of the tony tray ?

Air compressor works well and you can hear the leaks ?

Right down to the gulley, through a lead slate in the roof with weather collar. 2 - I would tip it Bach onto the roof two 90 gutter angles,

Aerated blocks crack and can shift around , they always crack, and sadly let air leaks in. Avoid using them in your own house.

I used basalt fibre wall ties on my house, mainly due to the wide cavities

Typical web search - https://www.extractorfanworld.co.uk/silavent-svc100b-axial-extractor-fan-with-auto-shutters-2515-p.asp

Positive shutter operated by a solenoid set to open when fan comes on

Danger, if the void I’d unsealed and open to outside air then the insulation will be subject to thermal bypass and the house cooler than intended.

Soakers easy with a Stanley knife (score deep and tear gently) or bench mounted workshop lever sheers

Check this out - https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/going-further/first-floor-void/ any tiny air path between you and a next door will let in a disproportionate amount of sound/noise my advice is to strip off the plasterboard linings to the party wall, Re plaster with sand and cement including in the floor void, sealing flexibly round all joists. I would also fill the party wall void with rockwool fibres. alternative is to fill the gap between the sheets and blocks with foam and seal the joists - difficult to do foam as it needs to be very liquid and non expanding

Is the party wall dot and dabbed? Do floor joists or trimmer run into it?

He will loose

When it goes wrong you want exposed, ideally with all gubbins freely accessible including brain and joints, pump etc