crispy_wafer

For timber, a strong magnet to detect the nails/screws is what the oldies used to use…

You don't necessarily need to stick to the same manufacturer, look for an unmanaged L2 POE switch, this will bring your price down a bit. Plug it in and go. then connect up your ap's and configure. Unless you want to mess with segmenting. At work I mix a bit as it's easy for me to configure and install Aruba switches, and Ubiquiti AP's. Mainly because I cut my teeth on Cisco IOS, my new place uses HPE/Aruba so transition was relatively simple. For home, I've got TP Link Omada based gear as they were on offer a little while back. Cost based decision... Access points at about 100 each is about right though, some cheaper, some more expensive.

Looking for a fairly discreet setup in my lounge, colleague at work showed me his setup that he installed with motorised lift/screen etc, looks great, just what I'd like to do! A big issue I have is that I'd like a projector lift in the centre of my ceiling (symmetry), problem with me having Pozi joists, I've got a ruddy Strongback in the way with about 150mm clearance underneath. If I offset the lift to the left or right of the Strongback would I have to move the screen from centre, or do projectors have the ability to deal with being offset and correct the image? Aside from that, anyone else play with screens and projectors, what ya got in terms of screen, lift/shelf?

Just need pointing in the right direction really as I'm pondering over the best approach. MF ceiling for my open kitchen/diner Dimensions if split down are approx 4500*3800 and 3900*3600. This is borne out of now really knowing how many joins and connections an MF ceiling can really handle Is it feasible to treat this as one big area and install the MF with lots of joins in the MF7 and MF5? Or split it down into 2 rectangles by installing a couple of lengths of MF6 edge support across the middle, to try and reduce the amount of jointed Mf7 support and mf5 top hat.

Character building! 700, christ, I've done about 230 on mine, and a lot of them were silly little bulltish invoices for small amounts from the likes of toolstation or screwfix. Just add a second sheet with a vendor and VAT number and do a lookup for the main culprits and then fill in the anomolies.

@Pocsterclaim-vat-refund-diy-invoice-template.xlsx here is copy of the template handed out by HMRC, and a screenshot of the webpage it came from. Hope that helps...

This is Key, I'm considering Aerobarrier for my own brick/block build, I've been quite fastidious in membranes, taping, painting airtight paints at junctions, but I'm always thinking about how to make the best out of what we are doing, and at this point Aerobarrier does come into the equation for me. I think I'd need to do a pre plaster Airtest first to really work out if I can justify a decision to proceed.

what size pipework? 10 or 15mm, chase the wall slightly above the joist and/or just hide the pipe in the dot and dab if plasterboard

2 days, a 3 ton machine, and a pro sorted mine, depth to 1m though. I’ve hired in various sizes since to do various jobs probably total cost of 1600 ish in hire fees. Wanted to buy one as can certainly make use for one but i think the capital is better spent on my build. Maybe when the vat payment comes in at the end 🤣

yes, installed by myself. Haven't moved into my build yet is the main reason.

That's what I installed last year. Pumped version though. Not used in anger yet.

I was being a wally, making more complicated than it needed to be, I'll just run the cables through the wall, then crimp some rj45 plugs.

Just after a bit of a sanity check, or correction please. I've run unterminated my cables to the approximate Camera location, I'm pondering over what to do with regards cable meets camera... I'm thinking terminate the main cable into a faceplate inside the building then run a shortish patch lead from the faceplate through the blockwork to the camera, alternatively run the cable straight out and have a junction box of sorts at the camera with splice kit buried in it. What would you do?

Cant answer that but try to look forwards and factor the annual running costs, might be more capital up front but lower running costs or vice versa, look at length of warranty, not that it means a lot these days, but might indicate a level of trust in their product by the manufacturer. As you’ve picked up, just stay well away from mechanical parts in a poo tank. Have a look at the bioficient if you are set on klargester.

I guess it depends on the ground water situation and what the manufacturers instructions say, I only a used concrete base and a complete concrete surround, just so it created a heavy tomb only because we have high water during winter, although simple answer to that is to leave it full and only de sludge in the summer. I might of gone a bit overboard tbh, who knows 🤷🏼‍♂️

If the works are open and no slab down, just make two runs to the ic outside, more pipe and a couple of fittings and an hour or two, but a batter solution that can be dealt with individually if the need ever arises.

My install - not that detailed but you’ll get the general gist.

I purchased rewatec unit, used travis Perkins, the delivery was on the back of a merc sprinter type flatbed. Direct from a yard up County Durham way (I think)…. We slid the unit off on some ramps that they bought with them. No need for the digger or crane - which I was fretting over.

Why do kitchen waste pipes after they emerge externally out of walls fall at steep angles as opposed to being straight up/down? Just something I just noticed when sitting in traffic this morning? 🤣

This is so true, amount of times I've seen the nail skew out over the course of my build. I always keep a hacksaw blade close by.

Did it myself, just saw it as one of the simple jobs that I could do without needing to pay someone. I also saw it that £1500 buys a lot of plasterboard, or half the tiles for my ground floor, or even the 9 days I spent in the Canaries over Christmas.

Electric only here, in the old bungalow. I switched over to Octopus Tracker 3 weeks ago, initially hesitant because of risk, but looking at the last years worth of tracker prices I decided to switch. Not running the heat pumps in the build yet, but if unit prices stay at approx 30% less then I'll take that.

Another bargain IT deal, if you see it as that... If you work in IT, or come across a trade supplier that will deal with you then, TP Link are running a promo, not for resale on selected lines of their Omada switches/AP's/Router/On prem Controller. A lot of the gear is 40% off and you can have 2 of each line. Probably isnt evolved as much as the ubiquiti gear, but then the product lines probably wont change as much either. I used my own trade reseller, but discovered by browsing on broadbandbuyer

No experience of the windows, but make sure you grip the handles and check their operation and feel in the hand. I never really did, mine are crap and the majority of them have loads of play left to right and in and out. The windows weren’t necessarily cheap either!

Hi there, no I didn’t, I put it to the back of my mind and moved onto another job. When it comes to my pre plaster inspection I’ll find out then. I do think that a 10mm notch won’t cause too much sleep loss. This scenario must crop up regularly in bungalows I’d have thought, maybe the modern way is to have fat dabs and pack out the plasterboard from the wall.