Dave Jones

best bang for your buck buildup. Use EPS under the screed not far from half the price of celotex for a superior U value. Here is what we use working FFL down. external Internal damp damp 75mm eng 75mm screed 75mm eng 225mm 7n block 300mm EPS insulation 225mm 7n block 150mm beam 75mm conc common total build up 600mm / 600 dont forget to use thermally broken marmox blocks as the first course of inner skin.

nah thats tosh. moving the door into the correct position so it can be architraved is nowt to do with disabled regs. jockish regs allow for 775 doors when approached head on. lets see how they get on fixing the door linings.

all new builds are 3 phase now, you need a deeper recessed box to fit it all in mind. You can always get 3 phase cable and then use a single phase meter.

you need more noggins. where the two doors meet nowhere to screw the plasterboard also will be no room for archivtrave either. Same at the slopes on the veiling that will need noggins.

ask the truss supplier for the height. find the centre mark the height and the bricky can run a string line.

cavity closer.

yep, engineering brick the colour you want. You could also use a block and have a vertical DPC on sloping ground.

ditch timber frame and go traditional brick and block. Save you 20% straight away. £2k m2 bare minimum NOT including foundations, utiliities, sewer, drive etc etc

why bother if its being tiled? lose 1mm easily in the adhesive

7m from buildings would mean no new legoland build would ever get a soakaway passed!

shaver socket where you intend for it to go. get signed off, swop for normal socket.

if your wanting any sort of build warranty then drain tests will need to be carried out and the results provided as well. Not that hard to do and the kit can be bought for under £30.

hang it off an exterior wall/put it on the roof.

cant see it being a problem, double chambers would be needed. A standard cheap pumped chamber at the house feeding the treatment plan wherever you put it. The 63mm pipe they use is an absolute bastard to use be warned!

a morning with a 5 ton machine, dig out all the bulging wall and grade it back into their side to stop it slumping again. Dump all the spoil their side as well. Any trees that are not covered by a TPO cut right back to your boundary, send the wood back to them. They cant stop you or make you do anything without taking you to court which from the sounds of it they are not in a position to do. Then fence your side as you want.

karndean or one of the clones is nice. engineered oak doesnt traffic well over time, certainly under stools (breakfast bar) wear patches appear surprisingly fast.

call into any builders merchant them have them in stock

surely you need an extended cill which physically extends the bottom of the window frame outside the structural envelope of the building then seal it underneath and the sides ? illbrook do a very good complete window sealing system.

heatloss calcs from from the designer of the system ? actual heatloss ?

hairdryer

no mileage into them somehow trying to force you to do the work. Should it get legal just do a pre-pack administration and put it down to experience.

horiffic.

with no insulation your better off venting.

hangers better for thermal bridgeing/air tightness.

thats poor. the bottom row of tiles hasnt had a kicker batten fitted so they are 'drooping'/ hanging low. The hip needs hip trays fitting above the dry kit. overall, poor workmanship. 3/10