Dave Jones

as long as the installer hasnt screwed through them and the frame is otherwise foamed/fixed in place just knock them out with a screwdriver and hammer.

use megastick adhesive foam, really good stuff.

pretty much but obviously not the header/lintel as its structural. depending on the frame of course but as much as you can inside the now insulated box. wouldn't worry about extending the lintel for a single brick as its still sitting on 2 more personally but you can if you want.

you cut the reveal enough to accommodate 80% of the frame so you still have an external weatherproof surface to trim/seal the frame externally. 20mm is enough and really impoves the performance a lot. Compriband can be easily put all around the frame using the box method as well, lastly make sure to remove any packers used to level the window once its been securely strapped as these are a really good cold bridge as well. It's all a bit anal I know, but there is little material cost and a lot of manual labour but I consider it time well invested.

window is really set too far to the front, its way outside the insulation envelope. Prior to building the internal stud, i would have cut 100/150mm both sides and bottom of the reveal and put 100mm celotex and a ply box to frame the window. Then refit the window so its sitting in that insulated box you have now made. This leaves the lintel which you cant easily add depth to accommodate celotex and is the worst cold bridge of the lot. Aerogel make the best performing insulation for thickness that you can add to the lintel. Lastly strap the window when refitting don't screw through the frame.

https://www.southampton.ac.uk/~assets/doc/estates-and-facilities/Standard Specifications/JCT Minor Works Contract with Contractors Design 2016 v3 April 2019.pdf

just to be clear still not an approved method.

stopped reading when it said "taped osb is a vapour barrier" they are obviously clueless. You need a REAL vapour barrier on the warm side of the roof brought down and sealed onto the internal brickwork the roof sits on. NHBC advice offers a few options, by far the easiest to work with is Alutrix. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-1-flat-roofs-and-balconies/7-1-10-thermal-insulation-and-vapour-control/

a decent planning specialist will know exactly what to do, sometimes they word it ready for the appeal from the get go. Sounds positive that the planning droid says its ok that means it meets the planning requirements that the council has set. Very good news for you when it comes to appeal. downside is all this burns a lot of time. Have you got your own councillor on the case ? Get the deadhead on the job finding out what the problem is, if it comes to a vote you want your member to vote for it.

stixall and plugs/screws every 300 staggered, staple a length of dpc to the back of the osb first for belt and braces.

wouldn't we all. unfortunately the type of person who wants to be a councillor is exactly the opposite of what's needed. e.g . braindead.

yes. Then you take it to appeal and claim costs.

if your not great with a digger use a builders string and couple pegs, establish the string at your required height start at one end and just keep moving it down. Rough it out with the digger first than rake to get nice. takes a little longer but not much. obviously a lot faster with laser but string is a quid right.

drilling through the frame compromises the U value and cold bridges the frame. straps every time.

alutrix followed by resitrix no brainer.

if your solicitor advises you there is nothing legally stopping you removing the pole then take it down, coil up the ends of the wire hand one to the neighbour and the other to the boundry from whence it comes. If you want to get on with said neighbour a more pragmatic approach could be considered, put it underground where there is zero chance of it being in the way for any future extensions/sheds etc and charge them. personally i'd want it gone asap so not to set an ownership precedent and not have the hassle.

ours the same! A lot depends o the setting and location, the estate colours in the Cotswolds look really good but not against red brick or council house render.

use a smaller chamber it doesnt look that deep, remove the coupler attached to the pipe coming through the conc and you should have enough room to move/align the chamber and to lose all those bends. If BC still want a rocker connection cut off some of the pipe and move the coupler closer to the conc. you really dont want dogs leg immediately leaving the chamber, may as well do it properly.

it is. common as dog muck at the moment.

best bang for your buck buildup. Use EPS under the screed not far from half the price of celotex for a superior U value. Here is what we use working FFL down. external Internal damp damp 75mm eng 75mm screed 75mm eng 225mm 7n block 300mm EPS insulation 225mm 7n block 150mm beam 75mm conc common total build up 600mm / 600 dont forget to use thermally broken marmox blocks as the first course of inner skin.

nah thats tosh. moving the door into the correct position so it can be architraved is nowt to do with disabled regs. jockish regs allow for 775 doors when approached head on. lets see how they get on fixing the door linings.

all new builds are 3 phase now, you need a deeper recessed box to fit it all in mind. You can always get 3 phase cable and then use a single phase meter.

you need more noggins. where the two doors meet nowhere to screw the plasterboard also will be no room for archivtrave either. Same at the slopes on the veiling that will need noggins.

ask the truss supplier for the height. find the centre mark the height and the bricky can run a string line.

cavity closer.