Dave Jones

yep, engineering brick the colour you want. You could also use a block and have a vertical DPC on sloping ground.

ditch timber frame and go traditional brick and block. Save you 20% straight away. £2k m2 bare minimum NOT including foundations, utiliities, sewer, drive etc etc

why bother if its being tiled? lose 1mm easily in the adhesive

7m from buildings would mean no new legoland build would ever get a soakaway passed!

shaver socket where you intend for it to go. get signed off, swop for normal socket.

if your wanting any sort of build warranty then drain tests will need to be carried out and the results provided as well. Not that hard to do and the kit can be bought for under £30.

hang it off an exterior wall/put it on the roof.

cant see it being a problem, double chambers would be needed. A standard cheap pumped chamber at the house feeding the treatment plan wherever you put it. The 63mm pipe they use is an absolute bastard to use be warned!

a morning with a 5 ton machine, dig out all the bulging wall and grade it back into their side to stop it slumping again. Dump all the spoil their side as well. Any trees that are not covered by a TPO cut right back to your boundary, send the wood back to them. They cant stop you or make you do anything without taking you to court which from the sounds of it they are not in a position to do. Then fence your side as you want.

karndean or one of the clones is nice. engineered oak doesnt traffic well over time, certainly under stools (breakfast bar) wear patches appear surprisingly fast.

call into any builders merchant them have them in stock

surely you need an extended cill which physically extends the bottom of the window frame outside the structural envelope of the building then seal it underneath and the sides ? illbrook do a very good complete window sealing system.

heatloss calcs from from the designer of the system ? actual heatloss ?

hairdryer

no mileage into them somehow trying to force you to do the work. Should it get legal just do a pre-pack administration and put it down to experience.

horiffic.

with no insulation your better off venting.

hangers better for thermal bridgeing/air tightness.

thats poor. the bottom row of tiles hasnt had a kicker batten fitted so they are 'drooping'/ hanging low. The hip needs hip trays fitting above the dry kit. overall, poor workmanship. 3/10

yes it does door and frame. https://trenddirectuk.com/trend-h-jig-c-hinge-jig-skeleton-two-part-in-case.html if you have a router you can make one yourself in 30 mins out of some scrap mdf.

take the m2 cost for a standard build of the same size and double it.

use a festool track with a dewalt saw (already have dewalt kit). had the track as i bought the festool cordless insulation saw for the compound PIR cuts.

with a router and jig to de-skill the job, hanging 10 doors in a day is no problem.

doing very similar with a 1900's house. Im sticking the pir to the existing plaster walls, no wooden batten for bridging. With MVHR as well. Any condensation must get through the PIR to form, in the unlikely eventuality that happens MVHR will take care of it. We are able to have zero service in the external walls to keep insulation continuous. I'm not bothering with any membranes or barriers as the humidity inside will always be less than outside.

apply a little heat to the intumescent strip and it will seal up nicely.