Dave Jones

that's it, i also cover the face of the lintel with insulation (100mm celtox same as i am putting on all our internal walls - solid 9") and then aerogel to the reveal of the lintel as its thin.

if you use straps dont forget to cover them in airtight tape after as well to seal (if your taping the windows of course).

all you need is a spare wheel and length of rope. tie rope to base of sapling run rope over the wheel and pull! The force multiplier is quite amazing, even get old fence posts out using it.

it has to be insulated where it enters the property, they inspect its done before connecting you to the mains.

entrances are covered by building regs. You do not have to keep to 150 above FFL but you must have installed a vertical DPC instead.

Best method would will be strip off the plasterboard and battens, megastick and screw (thermally broken)100mm celotex to the complete wall then stick new plasterboard and skim.

as long as the installer hasnt screwed through them and the frame is otherwise foamed/fixed in place just knock them out with a screwdriver and hammer.

use megastick adhesive foam, really good stuff.

pretty much but obviously not the header/lintel as its structural. depending on the frame of course but as much as you can inside the now insulated box. wouldn't worry about extending the lintel for a single brick as its still sitting on 2 more personally but you can if you want.

you cut the reveal enough to accommodate 80% of the frame so you still have an external weatherproof surface to trim/seal the frame externally. 20mm is enough and really impoves the performance a lot. Compriband can be easily put all around the frame using the box method as well, lastly make sure to remove any packers used to level the window once its been securely strapped as these are a really good cold bridge as well. It's all a bit anal I know, but there is little material cost and a lot of manual labour but I consider it time well invested.

window is really set too far to the front, its way outside the insulation envelope. Prior to building the internal stud, i would have cut 100/150mm both sides and bottom of the reveal and put 100mm celotex and a ply box to frame the window. Then refit the window so its sitting in that insulated box you have now made. This leaves the lintel which you cant easily add depth to accommodate celotex and is the worst cold bridge of the lot. Aerogel make the best performing insulation for thickness that you can add to the lintel. Lastly strap the window when refitting don't screw through the frame.

https://www.southampton.ac.uk/~assets/doc/estates-and-facilities/Standard Specifications/JCT Minor Works Contract with Contractors Design 2016 v3 April 2019.pdf

just to be clear still not an approved method.

stopped reading when it said "taped osb is a vapour barrier" they are obviously clueless. You need a REAL vapour barrier on the warm side of the roof brought down and sealed onto the internal brickwork the roof sits on. NHBC advice offers a few options, by far the easiest to work with is Alutrix. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-1-flat-roofs-and-balconies/7-1-10-thermal-insulation-and-vapour-control/

a decent planning specialist will know exactly what to do, sometimes they word it ready for the appeal from the get go. Sounds positive that the planning droid says its ok that means it meets the planning requirements that the council has set. Very good news for you when it comes to appeal. downside is all this burns a lot of time. Have you got your own councillor on the case ? Get the deadhead on the job finding out what the problem is, if it comes to a vote you want your member to vote for it.

stixall and plugs/screws every 300 staggered, staple a length of dpc to the back of the osb first for belt and braces.

wouldn't we all. unfortunately the type of person who wants to be a councillor is exactly the opposite of what's needed. e.g . braindead.

yes. Then you take it to appeal and claim costs.

if your not great with a digger use a builders string and couple pegs, establish the string at your required height start at one end and just keep moving it down. Rough it out with the digger first than rake to get nice. takes a little longer but not much. obviously a lot faster with laser but string is a quid right.

drilling through the frame compromises the U value and cold bridges the frame. straps every time.

alutrix followed by resitrix no brainer.

if your solicitor advises you there is nothing legally stopping you removing the pole then take it down, coil up the ends of the wire hand one to the neighbour and the other to the boundry from whence it comes. If you want to get on with said neighbour a more pragmatic approach could be considered, put it underground where there is zero chance of it being in the way for any future extensions/sheds etc and charge them. personally i'd want it gone asap so not to set an ownership precedent and not have the hassle.

ours the same! A lot depends o the setting and location, the estate colours in the Cotswolds look really good but not against red brick or council house render.

use a smaller chamber it doesnt look that deep, remove the coupler attached to the pipe coming through the conc and you should have enough room to move/align the chamber and to lose all those bends. If BC still want a rocker connection cut off some of the pipe and move the coupler closer to the conc. you really dont want dogs leg immediately leaving the chamber, may as well do it properly.

it is. common as dog muck at the moment.