Dave Jones

weep vents ?

still not a VCL. For a warm roof a VCL MUST be used.

stops vapour moving into it ? Its wrong and people shouldn't copy bad practice.

not an airtight layer. Only a proper VCL can provide that. no taping, gluing etc etc

do the shed companies plans show internal block walls ? No ? then they are completely different. Tell them to go sing.

yup

use a wall hung frame with built in bog extraction.

multiple zones at diff temps is bad practice and will lower the efficency.

Assume you saying they are 6" to 8" out, not insurmountable ask your brickies.

Fischer Paykel dishwasher draws are game changing. Cant go back to the old tech once had one. expensive though!

not with a mixergy tank.

rood insulation cant be bodged as you do not want the dreaded black mould. Tiles need to come off, counter battened to give you the correct air flow then breathable membrane and put tiles back. Or just stuff the rockwool back in and plaster over .....

Use a planning consultant, planning is not an area to mess about DIY'ing.

good list, id add. lose the spirit level and use a laser, especially over longer runs. dig the trench using the laser to follow the slope to save on pea gravel. chamfer tool to bevel pipe cuts. silicone spray lube never use 4" ducting, its the work of the devil. when running out of fall you can use 1/pipe diameter as a bare miniumum. you have yet to experience the joy of using 63mm pumped chamber pipe. I wont ruin the surprise....

dont make it out of wood.

maybe worth going down the FENSA route.

screw piles >££> Traditional piling

thermowood

its going to work fine but it wont perform its best, could look at insulated wood fibre board for the reveals as its not so deep, or aerogel insulation but the latter is ££££ It's worth getting as much insulation as you can now as the finished window will lose heat forever after fitted so the more can you mitigate it the better in the long run.

use it up for post holes/haunching etc, mix in a bit of ballast with it.

the ideal place to set the window is so that it is encapsulated by the insulation, building regs like to see a min of 65mm now unless you plan on insulating the reveals inside separately.

he's saying that because it means it will take him twice as long to fill with blocks having to put these in at the same time and on the correct centres. 10000 times easier to do from above. offer to pay him the extra day/s time to do it.

if your using a heat pump you want only 1 zone or your wasting efficiency.

600 is doable, scaff planks cut tight into the sides make the best spiked wither side into the banks with rebar. wont move.

The door manufacturer will have a specification for building in a level threshold design, ask them for it then ask builder/fitter if its been complied with. There are not many who make them. We have used successfully in the past a standard full cill, where the cill provides the both the drainage channel for the frame and the weatherproofing, this is then slabbed over tight top the frame. You must make sure though that the cill can drain under this either by bedding on pea gravel if your ground doesn't pool or a linear under it tight to house and then drain to the soakaway (better). Lastly as you are breaching the DPC i would recommend the builder fits a cavity tray along the full elevation of that wall 1 block higher on the inside to comply with building regs about ground level being below DPC by a min 75mm etc All of this cant be done as an afterthought and needs to be planned from the get go which many on a price builders wont care/do as it requires time and effort. Architects even more clueless if your unlucky enough to be paying one to 'manage' it.