Dave Jones

could be a tray there moving the DPC higher........ with regard to the channel, id want it tight as possible between the tiles so there isnt a need for grout as it wont stay there. The plastic swells in the sun and cracks it as its soo thin.

id also thoroughly recommend using Kingspan Thermataper on the flat roof. Send them your plans and where you want the outlets and they will make the insulation with the correct falls. No need to mess about with firring strips etc. They also can supply it with glass fibre top which you can directly bond EDPM too saving a layer of OSB which isnt cheap these day. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/products/insulation-boards/roof-insulation-boards/thermataper-tt47/

remember 100/200 mm of celtoex doesn't work brick so you will paying the brick layer for more of his time. 150/300 does.

nothing to lose by appealing the decision. You can still crack on in the meantime. Would make your build 10 times quicker/cheaper.

i think the point is, insulation is sealed so its hard for moisture from inside the house to travel through it and meet the dewpoint. Worse would be if the dewpoint made it through the insulation and into the blockwork/plasterboard etc.

i was referring to and linked EPS, unfortunately i have dyslexia so autocorrect doesn't always catch everything. Here is the standard buildup giving a U value of 0.103 against a min spec of 0.13

exactly this and if you can strip the roof off prior to submitting plans so your not stung with bat surveys etc.

https://flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk/product/jablite-polystyrene-insulation-board-150mm-eps70-2400mm-x-1200mm/ Travis are cheaper for us though at £6.25 /m2

your right of course regarding muckaways but 300mm of XPS is still 40% cheaper than 150mm celotex for a much better U value.

you want 300mm of XPS, its a simple job to get the floor up (drains ???) and do the job properly.

no one is ever going to check, in the remote event they do. wooops and get the 4x2 out.

one is specified to resist wind uplift one isnt. quite important to get right if its been specified.

talk to whoever provides recycled hardcore in your area, could find they will knock it down feed it through their crusher and take the crush.

and its in english!

maybe the SE has designed to resist uplift if you are in an exposed position ? same effort to use wither so it doesnt really matter.

4.8m length of 4x2 nailed to a normal 100mm fence post. Job done for less than £50 or just ignore the cretin and crack on.

careful with them, they dont meet building regs for U value at 1.4

cant see the login for not using normal wall plate straps. The trusses are held by clips to the wall plate already. Any builders merchant stock them.

why are the ridge tiles overhanging the gable ? personally prefer a dry valley with short upstand with tiles cut tight to get rid of the gap, looks tidier.

sigh. no this isnt a VCL. These bodges are all too common.

make the windows work brick, adjust them a few mill either way so you end up with a half brick. One of the many things architects are clueless on, specifying widow and door sizes that dont work brick.

looks great!

gabion baskets are cheapish method and they look good as well.

id add some mushroom vents at the base of the pitched roof/flat roof junction to get some air flow.

interesting. from my understanding, brushing a sloppy sand/cement mix over them prior to dabbing ensures any tiny shrinkage cracks are sealed. Agree they should be gagged properly anyway but it doesn't take long to brush a slurry over them for belt and braces.