Dave Jones

solicitors tricks like this are very very common. The more crap they can request the more time they add to the clock/bill.

yep do this. 300mm eps is good start point.

rubbish. only valid planning matters are considered by the planners and more importantly the inspector should it goto appeal. 99.9% of parish councillors cannot distinguish moaning and opinion with planning policy. They have no option to make any sort of representation to a formal planning committee either, perhaps you can link us to some minutes if this isn't the case where you live ?

jewson use estimators online.

parish councillors have zero say on the detailed plans. Don't even bother arguing with them. All the parish committee can do is recommend or refuse and because its joe public they are clueless on actual planning matters 99% of the time anyway so are ignored by the planners.

soft wood linings are hit and miss quality wise. MDF liners are bang on and you can use wide slam strips instead of the narrow ones for a more professional look.

starting to pick up, the 68.3p kw/h is very nice

there is some intelligence to it for sure, it 'knows' what your solar profile is so keeps a bit spare.

the builder wouldn't have costed in the time needed to tape every slab on insulation, if he had he wouldn't have used 600 centres either for the trusses as it results in massive waste of PIR. You need LOTS of http://www.gapogroup.com/ tape, get busy.

how have you set it up to charge ? Mine is programmed with the cheap rates (im on 3 different rates depending on time of day) and it keeps to them perfectly.

https://www.estimators.com/ send them the full plans and elevations. You get a build price EXCLUDING footings.

i would fit an eaves ventilation tray first to keep good airflow then cram as much insulation as physically possible into the void. https://www.roofingsuppliesuk.co.uk/collections/eaves-ventilation

only put them external if your going for the 70's council estate look. They should feed into a chamber as soon as practivable to allow for easy rodding. Vent them to a roof tile vent.

good luck getting a service call from Poland when inevitably something goes wrong. must be crackers.

probably the type of brikkie who thinks gauging buckets take too much time as well..

fantasy land you need sound tests, fire regs, SAP/heating, etc etc

that's it, i also cover the face of the lintel with insulation (100mm celtox same as i am putting on all our internal walls - solid 9") and then aerogel to the reveal of the lintel as its thin.

if you use straps dont forget to cover them in airtight tape after as well to seal (if your taping the windows of course).

all you need is a spare wheel and length of rope. tie rope to base of sapling run rope over the wheel and pull! The force multiplier is quite amazing, even get old fence posts out using it.

it has to be insulated where it enters the property, they inspect its done before connecting you to the mains.

entrances are covered by building regs. You do not have to keep to 150 above FFL but you must have installed a vertical DPC instead.

Best method would will be strip off the plasterboard and battens, megastick and screw (thermally broken)100mm celotex to the complete wall then stick new plasterboard and skim.

as long as the installer hasnt screwed through them and the frame is otherwise foamed/fixed in place just knock them out with a screwdriver and hammer.

use megastick adhesive foam, really good stuff.

pretty much but obviously not the header/lintel as its structural. depending on the frame of course but as much as you can inside the now insulated box. wouldn't worry about extending the lintel for a single brick as its still sitting on 2 more personally but you can if you want.