Dave Jones

no need for fancy steel doors. It needs an external door frame with cill so you can can use normal 'front door' type rubber seals to seal it. can use a normal internal FD 30 door with intumescent strip routed into it.

its a false saving getting watertight in weeks if you dont get a completion cert for another 12 months remember. Same as the expensive shed builds. Unless the trades are lined up to machine gun the build out in 8/12 weeks its burring cash for no reason.

perhaps my English isnt good the key word is, O V E R D R A U G H T You are paying using borrowed money same as a credit card.

When paying with borrowed money you are covered by cca. Martin Lewis brought it up ages ago. So easy to fully protect yourself when doing a bank transfer.

paid a small amount on either a debit card linked to an account with an overdraught or bank transfer from same account. Either way you would be fully protected.

No consolation I know but a shame so may people still get had when its soo easy to protect yourself.

slim down to a 150 cav, have a look at recticel tongue and groove insulation. superior than celotex sheets.

you had to pay cash ?

are there any rads as well ? could explain dirty water .... Bleeding loops, especially long ones, takes a good while. It's an all day job on our last place as there was a lot.

just remember going to lawfare will take months/years and you will not have a completion cert in the meantime. You cant insure using a normal home insurance etc wood for the trees.

did you pay any amount to them on a credit card or debit card when you were using an overdraught ? If so claim off the bank.

im really just following the NHBC spec for capping a parapet wall, albeit you wont need the cavity closer. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-1-flat-roofs-and-balconies/7-1-17-parapets-and-guarding-to-terraces-and-balconies/

unless its your forever home, take advantage of your good fortune and sell it.

before putting the coping stones back on run a length of dpc along it, cut it so its 5mm wider than wall to shed the water.

i looked at this and decided better off spending on a battery as you can be flexible with how you use the stored electric. Heat battery are 1 trick pony.

that is buildzone warranty underwriter.

concrete pan tiles are easiest and cheapest, some look really smart as well. Marley deo edgemore for example. Much more robust than clay or slate with none of the overlapping to worry about. Forgiving to cut at valleys/hips etc.

if your that worried pay the money and do it properly. you cant have your cake and eat it.

its only going to be there for a couple hours while you get signed off. Think outside the box.

you need to get over the hurdle as cheap as possible. stud out and put a door in, once its inspected you can remove it all. yes a pain in the arris but you are where you are. BCO are not going to pass it, you arent going to take them to court for costs so just crack on and get it done.

you dont need to go mega deep with posts, 400mm is fine. The risk you run is having to take it all back up when it starts sinking/rocking.

your end goal needs to be an airtight, highly insulated box containing all your rooms ventilated by an mvhr system. Aim to meet new build U values for insulation as the refurb ones are crap.

only 'Entrance' doors need thumb locks and it only says 'should' not must. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-7-doors-windows-and-glazing/6-7-8-security/#:~:text=Entrance doors of individual homes,the door or its frame The bog standard eurocylinder lock can be replaced in 2 mins for a thumbturn (£15 screwfix). Ive never had BCO pick up on it ever though and have allways had a key multipoint lock.

marmox blocks.

in my experience you only every get persistent effervescence where the brickwork gets wet constantly. You can see this on your photo's, something is causing the corner of the building to get wet by looks, guttering ? Stop dripping/leaking directly onto the brickwork and 99% of it will disappear.