Dave Jones

no

if the officer is recommending approval you have won irrespective of what a councillor may do. Appeal with costs if they are silly enough. society of whingers and nimbys in this country. I watch our local applications and every one is objected to by neighbours. Nothing would get built ever if it was down to that.

you need a tony tray http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/tony.htm

pay any of it on credit card ?

id go for a sheet of ply/osb 12mm on the bottom for bearing, paint the underside of it with blackjack to waterproof it. polyethene brought up 200mm up the walls, 50mm celotex then a thinner sheet of ply/osb to use as a floor 9mm to make a nice celotex sandwich. The blackjack will help the rot from underneath and the expense of using marine ply. 50mm celotex while not good for a house will be massive in a shed, use the same in the walls/ceiling and make a box. tape all the joints will be cosy.

there was an episode on grand designs where they were in similar position as you, they went off grid with battery, genny and masses of gorund based solar (no planning needed) and it all worked well. obviously many many times more expensive than a normal connection but when you have no other option.

careful doing this, you may not be waterproof without a stub cill with some windows as they contain the frame waterproofing detail.

your drawings specs kooltherm sheets which will meet building regs. Expensive though and difficult to detail. May be worth moving to 150mm cavity and using full flil dritherm batts. Typical with architects they have left your roof low so sorting the insulation and keeping air flow where the trusses travel over the wall will be difficult. you will not be able to fully fill this area as it will block air flow so will have a bad cold spot. A single block higher 225mm will let you do a much better job and give higher internal ceilings, does add some cost but worth it.

yep. once you have a house. until you have the completion and warranty cert you have a building site not a house.

no of course not. 50mm of eps is virtually pointless anyway

It’s good practice to not fit cast Cills until the outside skin is complete. They will 100% get chipped or stained with muck otherwise. good job by your Brickie’s shows they paying attention to detail. zero issue bedding them in level .

Need to get it out. pipe it to wherever your roof water is going.

we call them stub cills locally, yours looks ok.

sure you want to be breathing in plastic particles ?

confused. So was the new screed he put in level ? Did this level match the adjoining slab/threshold ? Photo of the whole area would be good to see standard of work. The close up doesn't show screed it looks like concrete. Screed is completely different.

i dont believe part M applies to existing flat conversions/alterations.

cut studs to 400 gaps not centres to remove waste from celotex sheets. Gapotape the insulation. It's like compriband for insulation. really good stuff.

it will be fine for many years until you are in a tight corner digging the last bucket and then need to track over the open trench. at this point it will come off for sure.

a cheap option is www.estimators.com , send them your plans and elevations. you will get a price down to the last screw. it wont give you prices on getting out the ground or steel unless you supply the SE report. Can tweak labour rates to suit your area, pretty accurate for only a couple hundred quid. Once you have this you can give a copy to the builders so they know what they are working with.

why do you want to lose the screed its your finished floor ? pipes stapled to the insulation then 75mm sand/cement screed on top.

they can literally do what they want as they are not accountable. Your only recourse to any of it is an appeal unfortunately.

your making a rod for your own back by choosing a niche, expensive build system with limited builders who can do them properly. save yourself a load of headache and cash and look at a normal brick and block build.

rotate socket 180 degrees and refit.

need to see what is under that lead. should be soakers and a couple of trays, one at back and one at front. The cover flashing looks a little low, ideally it needs to be 150mm. get it scaffolded and take more pics, lift the tiles.

ripples means you floated it a bit too early. It needs to be nearly gone off and it will be like glass.