Dave Jones

we are using the recoup column unit, they only work for showers is my understanding as they need a constant cold feed to take the heat. We are plumbing all the showers (4) into a single unit and insulating the waste feeds to the unit.

whats with the prison bars ? Temporary protection ?

so your fitting your cills below DPC or your FFL is above dpc ? definitely cold bridging there as the screed is exposed to an external wall albeit not a lot. marmox solution keeping a consistent DPC and mitigating cold bridging is better solution albeit more expensive.

thermo's will get you a sap fail for mitigating cold bridging as they don't stop it. The stock marmox detail is a little wrong for us as it doesn't show the screed and insulation travelling over the cavity. it looks like this for door reveals. An upstand isnt really needed in the reveals but without the marmox you are directly heating the ground outside with your slab. not a good idea.

more too it than that. You need to set your finished floor level and work down from there. This will largely dictate what you use. For example, if you are on roughly level ground your FFL/DPC would be around 150mm above that. working down: screed - 75mm insulation - 300mm EPS Beam - 150/225 depending on spec brick to sit beam on 75mm trench block to give 150mm clear space below the beam 225 so as a bare minimum you are into the ground 675mm already and this assumes your drains work with this. So a 1m footing would only give you 325mm of conc which wouldn't be much, BCO like a min of 600 which now puts you at 1300 into the ground etc. It's a cost equation between muckaway vs conc cost etc

even a broken clock is correct once a day! Have to agree, we have allergy sufferers so will be a godsend for them next summer. Will still use the large sliders as and when just let the system do its thing.

interesting about the wet cav, do you have to reapply the treatment annually ? ref cold bridging, your detail fails current sap specifically 1A and 1B. Photographs have to be provided showing how the cold bridge has been mitigated now. The plus side of marmox allows the doors to fully sit on the external skin and still be thermally broken and fully in the insulation envelope. Here is the detail, we have level threshold so the marmox wont be seen as its underground.

probably be a C / B on the new regs, they much harder.

is this old regs ?

those metal boxes are crap, no strength to them at all. noggin wont move, ever.

another reason to ditch the stuff. yes it will take fixing from thermally broken mushrooms. You see a lot of bodges using various types of cheap plastic sheets that are not brought down the walls, all useless.

wet EPS is a leak, its summer you shouldnt be getting tons of condensation anyway. Alutrix as a VCL on the warm side, lapped down onto the internal walls. Insulation above (or up onto the parapet walls if you have upstand)and sealed with a weatherproof covering, EDPM far more forgiving than fibreglass. Get the installers back to fix the leak.

these cold roof abortions rely on not much condensation being created internally in order not to rot out.

the single room mvhr units with heat recovery look good, they talk to each other etc. bpc sell them

self build = zero cil

put a bee brick in our garage, have to look after nature.

price not too bad, id engage building control to inspect it to be sure.

My guess is you have a leak not condensation. fibre glass is crap compared to EDPM.

you have a cold roof so you need to maintain a ventilation gap from the eaves to the ridge. if your not making the loft a habitable room just add more loft roll.

so it was cheaper to pay the brickie to lay 2 blocks over 1 ?

when you say you paid the roofer to 'sort the tiles' did you pay for strip, new felt and batten for that elevation or is the roofer just polishing a turd ?

go pay a professional planner/lawyer. rolling the dice on the majority of your income on internet advice when we barely know the facts is probably even more risky.

bad practice though, reduces efficiency when you need it most. Your solar rooms would increase the efficiency if it was all one loop surely ?

ringbeam would be a lot cheaper as you are piling ?

100mm of celotex is definitely a good start, bump it to 150mm and you will be exceeding new build regs.