Dave Jones

its hard to see from the photo but it doesn't look like there is a tray or dpc on the chimney toi stop water transmission through it, the repointed top is a bit of a giveaway. have a look at LABC https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/blog/how-to-ensure-your-chimney-is-constructed-correctly/

Lindab make some stunning galv guttering, available in any RAL colour. http://www.lindab.com/global/pro/categories/pages/rainwater-systems.aspx

i used these guys on last build. Inset trays, very easy to do. Comes with all the flashing etc. https://www.pluginsolar.co.uk/

hows is look inside the loft, can you see where the water is getting in ?

brickies normally pack out any bows with some slate.

underfloor without insulation is a total waste of time and money. dont bother.

lift the roof height so you get full size rooms upstairs if possible.

if you cant wait try reclamation yards.

there is massive shortage doesnt really matter which retailer you try they all buy from the same supplier.

as others have said, you need really 150mm of insulation and 75mm of screed on top of that to do the job properly or to building regs. This additional 225mm would mean you would hit your heads when walking through internal doors which is why the floor has to come out first. Honestly you will be better off with rads.

i dont think you understand...... We floored the house at one time not rooms ....

bit difficult as the next board hasnt been layed yet as the row has to be completed before the next one joins. neverthless we ignored that part and screwed them down as the next wow was fitted.

they also say to screw the leading edge when installing which makes it very hard to butt the next one up if there is any deviation at all in the trusses. 150centres and not a squeek or bounce out of mine. All ends landed on a truss or noggin.

if you have the budget. Fischer paykal dish drawer. If you still have any budget left, their quad cooker range. makes the competition look like currys own brand.

6 months is a bit of a joke though. I think from memory egger warranty 45 days exposed to weather. All exposed edges should have been brushed with the same foaming glue as well. If you know you wont be getting watertight in that time don't put the floor down. With your builder on that one. As for bounce, who specified the joists ? Struct eng ? Was the egger fitted correctly and noggins used where ends not hitting joists etc ? Was it screwed every 150mm ?

i did, used it for 2 baths and utility. Silent and means no punching through the walls for extract vents per building control. Will be using again for sure.

no heat = no condensation.

damn! gonna lock myself in shed tomorrow and pant, drop a good 3 stone!

solar is usefull for planning as you can pass the SAP calcs with solar pv, gas combi and 100mm standard cav insulation. keeps cost down for developers.

no heat inside it ?

it can be nailed according to nhbc but as you find they blow when the timber moves, screws not so much. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/9-finishes/9-2-wall-and-ceiling-finishes/9-2-4-dry-lining/

thats really good. What was the total cost of the ticket items if you don't mind me asking. windows, bathrooms, kitchen, appliances, doors.

ground source don't suffer the same as ASHP which stop working/produce tepid output when its very cold.

no need to be. Have a QS produce a quote from the plans, it will be down to the last screw. They will use industry standard times for laying 1m2 of bricks, stud, tile etc etc banks use them to lend on so they are accurate enough.

egger is brilliant stuff. the amount of abuse it will take is unreal.