swelliott

"but it was statement that UFH will make it command a higher price - even though he has been told it won,t work' If you had bothered to read the post I was replying to, I was merely pointing out that profit doesn't come from solely making the build cost cheaper, because if it did I wouldn't be on here trying to find out whether UFH was a viable option. Nowhere did I say that I wanted to install UFH regardless of opinion because I will get more money from it. Yes, UFH would be more desirable, but the cost to install it is a lot more than rads so I can't be doing it just for the moeny. I have clearly stated in a few posts now that I came on here asking what the general advice is as to whether it would work or not, and I have heard most people's constructive comments that it wouldn't work without a good level of insulation, and as such I have taken that advice onboard and will be installing radiators instead. But to reply to my posts making comments like yours is completely unjustified and unreasonable. Honestly, if you have nothing constructive to say, don't bother saying anything.

Thank you Peter.

I’ve never said anything of the sort. I came on here saying I would like to fit UFH in the flat. I’ve never done it before and was interested in finding out the implications and consequences of fitting a UFH system in the flat with what I have to work with. If it doesn’t lend itself to UFH, then I’m more than happy to install rads and do some boxing in. Again, I never said I wouldn’t do it. I just wanted to clarify things before making my mind up. But to say I want the kudos of UFH just to get more money is completely unfair. I’m simply seeing if UFH is a viable option, which it doesn’t sound like it is unless I can get a decent amount of insulation underneath.

Thanks for the constructive comments.

I didn’t say I wasn’t going to insulate under the UFH. All I’ve said is that I have minimal floor height to work with, so I’m trying to find the best way of installing it.

Installing rads would keep my costs lower and you would therefore think that the profit is greater. However, there are 2 caveats to that. The first is that UFH is more desirable and would demand a slightly higher price on resale, therefore making my profit higher by spending more in the build. The second is that although I'm in the business to make money, I'm not one of those developers who doesn't give a s**t about the buyers and would prefer to sell my properties knowing I've done a good job that the new owners will be happy with.

Thanks again Mr Punter. So at the moment, when I step into the flat from the outside hallway, the level drops 40mm. I could alter the height of the door so I have to step up slightly when I come into the flat instead. If it's only an inch of so, that wouldn't be that noticeable but would give me about 60-70mm to play with instead. If I was going to lay something like 30mm of celotex down throughout the flat, what type of UFH would I then be looking at laying? Would it be like a floating system with the panels instead of castellated trays? Would I still need to pour screed on top?

Thanks for the constructive comments PeterW. I've chosen to go with the tray systems as they seem to offer a low profile option, obviously something I need because of the 40mm max. depth issue. I will be putting liquid screed on top and I've been told 20mm is recommended which is just over the top of the trays. I will be tiling the kitchen, hallway and bathroom, but the lounge will have engineered wood on top and the 2 bedrooms will be carpeted. The Wundatherm panels that you refer to seems to be sort of the same as the insulated panel that I am getting on the castellated trays, just not as thick as I am governed by the front door step, although they do come in up to 25mm thick (https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/acatalog/Profix-Insulation--PPInsul.html#SID=556).

Thanks for your post Mr Punter. Can you tell me where you've seen the bad reviews? I did look for online reviews but could only find 1 website, Trustpilot, that reviews The Floor Heating Warehouse, and that had mixed reviews. I have looked into buying the Uponor Minitec system (https://www.uponor.co.uk/products/underfloor-heating/minitec). Have you had any experience of them? I have looked into overlay boards, but they all seem to say they are for tiling over or laying wood on. I will have a mixture of carpet, wood and tiles in the various rooms of the flat. The Wundatherm panels that PeterW refers to seems to be the same as the insulated panel that I am getting on the castellated trays, just not as thick as I am governed by the front door step. Although those panels can be up to 25mm thick (https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/acatalog/Profix-Insulation--PPInsul.html#SID=556). I would love to have 100mm of insulation under the UFH but the current design of the flat means I can't. I could take some off all the doors, but not too much otherwise I would be left with a big step into the flat from an internal hallway which would look rubbish. I would like to say that even though I'm a developer and renovating the flat to sell, I'd like to think that I am conscientious and do think about the next owner despite what some might say. I know there are developers out there who don't care about the onward purchase, but I do. If I didn't, I wouldn't have come to this site for advice. Thanks Mr. Punter.

Thanks to everyone for your comments and thoughts. The flat I am renovating will be to flip and sell ,and although I am not the type of person to cut corners, pulling up the current floor in order to get more insulation down under the UFH will cost a small fortune. Furthermore, my preferred heating system in this type of flat would have been traditional radiators. However, the floor is solid concrete throughout and so is the ceiling, which again would ensure that the running of pipework to all the radiators would be an an absolute nightmare in chasing out. Because I am governed by the step at the front door of only 40mm, with the low profile system and screed being 20mm, adhesive and tiles being another 13mm, that only leave me 7mm to play with. So after reading everyone's comments, I will go with the low profile castellated trays that are already backed with 6mm insulation. I'm sure there will be people out there who say this ins't nearly enough but apart from pulling up the existing floor, I can't see that there is anything else I can do. Thanks again.

Thanks for the input Temp. I may be wrong so please correct me if so, but I thought that these low profile systems were meant to overcome the need for lots of insulation underneath the UFH because, as with retro fitting in old houses, installations have little depth to play with (without digging up the existing substrate), and secondly, the pipes are a lot closer to the surface so more heat is felt in the room.

Thanks Oldspot. I called Profix today and they said the reason they state on their website that the low profile trays can be stuck down with self adhesive backing is because they are launching self adhesive backed panels in April. However, as they are not ready for sale yet, the current trays still need to be screwed down.

Thanks for the replies Temp and Oldspot. Temp - the existing floor is the original screed floor that was laid down when the building was built in the 1950s. Whether there is insulation underneath the top level of the screen or not, I don’t know. However I am governed by what I can put down by the lake at the front door which is approximately 40 mm high And I still have to get tiles and tile adhesive on top of the screed yet. oldspot- Thanks for pointing this out. It’s the first time I’ve seen that. If you have a look on the floor heating warehouse website it shows a YouTube video with them screwing down the drains. I have emailed Profix to confirm which is the correct procedure. Thanks for the adhesive recommendations.

Hi, I have not bought from these before but funnily enough I’ve just had a quote from them as well. They weren’t quite half the price of other companies quotes for me, it was more like 30% cheaper than still a great saving. The only issue I have with them compare to other companies is that the low-profile system has to be screwed down which is a risk I have to weigh up as I believe there are a couple of pipes in my flat that are relatively close to the surface. Other companies toilet into had double sided adhesive on the back of their trays that can be used just to stick them down. I have just created a new post asking if anyone has used contact spray adhesive to stick them down instead. I’m sorry it doesn’t answer your question directly but just wanted to let you know that my quote was cheaper too They can’t design service seems to be just as good as any other companies. Let me know how you get on.

Hi, I am going to be purchasing a Profix low profile UFH system from The Floor Heating Warehouse. I have been told that the castellated trays do not have double sided adhesive on the backs (unlike a lot of other companies’ trays) and that they need to be screwed down using at least five screws per tray. The trouble is that the flat I am laying it in is an old 1950s building and there is at least 1 pipe (which I know of) buried in the floor about 20-30mm from the surface. As such, I don’t really want to run the risk of putting a screw straight through a water pipe and have therefore thought about sticking the trays down with something like No Nonsense contact spray adhesive. Has anybody else done this or got other ideas for keeping the trays stuck to the floor whilst I pour the liquid screed on it? Alternatively, will the no-nonsense spray adhesive service in keeping the trays in situ? Many thanks in advance for your input.