bassanclan

What is your proposed finished layout?

You should be roughening the surfaces to be solvent welded before applying the solvent weld

Another vote for the left. If you were to build a tiny extension between the chimney breast and the red dotted line it would be a side extension, not an extension in front of the principal elevation

If both sides of a semi can put a side extension on, there no reason why a detached house couldn't on both sides

1350 tray is the job Found this after a quick Google www.ukbathroomsolutions.co.uk/product/s-6-walk-enclosure-tray-1350mm-x-90mm/

Not sure why you would be sealing the joint. Either the mortar is ok and keeping the water out, or it needs raking out and repointing

It doesn't look like your typical solid wall brick bond...

Row of pipe clips on the pipes coming in/out

I bought some from the manufacturers and when I went to pick them up I could see how they were made. There's no mesh inside, just soft or silver sand and cement. The moulds have the look of being painted with liquid rubber, which I imagine is a release agent. DPM would be too thick and wrinkly, but if you have any tanking liquid from your bathroom renovation that might do the job??? Make sure you buy all your sand in one go to make sure you get colour consistency

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233113751408

"The consensus" is where you get your justification. E.g. structural survey says the wall will fall down etc. The ways of making it more palatable might be by keeping the new building the same size and external appearance, use reclaimed bricks etc

The extra 3% tax does NOT apply to land, only homes. If you were buying a demolish and rebuild plot then you would have to pay the 3% tax, or get it demolished before you buy

Is vinyl silk not a good option for this?

Angle grinder with a ultra thin metal blade, (have a few handy) if you are worried about fire take a damp towel up with you. I've just been cutting 2mm galvanised steel with a cheapo 110mm screwfix grinder and its fine

I don't know about Top flow, but Agilia is liquid concrete. The texture is like single cream, it self levels and doesn't require labour to finish it. You wade around through the concrete with a concrete tamper around 4ft wide gently agitating the surface to bring out any bubbles, then spray it with the activator. To compare prices you need to look at the real cost alternatives: Agilia: Concrete cost e.g. £105 +vat per cube Pump (I paid £400 cash) 2 hours of my own labour when laying Angle grind breaks in concrete 30 mins labour Hire machine to remove laitance £100 and a day of my labour Normal concrete: Concrete e.g. £85 per cube Pump may or may not be needed, but otherwise you might need to allow for waiting time if you are barrowing the concrete Labour you need experienced labour to tamp it and then powerfloat it or your end up having to have screed as well. For me the I figured the extra cost of 8 cube was worth while

With this kind of concrete you spray a curing agent over the concrete once poured, it's in a backpack type sprayer. Tarmac should offer site service where the local rep shows you how to tamp the concrete and spray the curing agent. The laitance is a creamy/oily firm that develops on the top surface which prevents tiles etc sticking to the surface so you need to remove it, but it's no issue if you are carpeting the floor.

Yes I used agilia. It was about 25% more than normal concrete, plus it has to be pumped where you might barrow etc. The area rep will come and spray the activator and tamp down on the first time you order, but will expect you to do it on subsequent orderings/jobs. For large expanses you need to cut in breaks the next day to stop cracks. If you are tiling then you need to remove the laitance. I would advise doing it in the first couple of weeks, otherwise it is difficult to get off as it sets too hard

I went for velux solar as it was in a bathroom and keylite mains electric in another room. Both easy to install.

Maybe these are what you are looking for: https://www.toolstation.com/radmaster-650-isolating-radiator-tails/p57561

The RHI on gasification boilers makes them worth looking at. Unfortunately we didn't have room for one.

If you are in a smoke free area then there are not many available that meet the regs. The stoves that meet the regs are £1800+ and there is the cost of integrating with your hot water system to consider as well which will be expensive- I would say it doubles the cost of the job vs a dry stove, so you've got to have a good supply of wood and be planning to live there for a while to male it worth while. You can add a boiler to many stoves, but then the stove in 99% of cases will no longer meet the regulations. I have a Dunsley Yorkshire with back boiler linked to open vented hot water cylinder via an H2 panel. I've fitted the same in another house to a thermal store.

OK what about a white frame sealant such as around windows. The concern being it won't match the render or the stone

Clear CT1 does discolour. I don't know about outside, but in a bathroom I fitted 6 months ago it's gone yellow - even though it has some natural light. What about using the same mortar as the stone?

10% off everything on ebay when using the Ebay app today on purchases over £100. Maximum discount available is £50 - I. E. If you buysomething for £600 you will still only get £50 off. 3 redemptions per account

I can't say if they will come to Lincolnshire, but I used blown beads from Miller Pattison who are in Sheffield. They came to Warwickshire for that job.