bassanclan

Fit the tray Tank the walls if you are going to Tile the walls Grout Seal the joint between the tray and the walls Fit the door. No need to unpack the door, just Google the manufacturer fitting instructions e.g. Mira slider door has 40mm adjustment

Door frame will be exactly 1000mm Usually you fix a metal channel to tge wall and the door fixes into the channel allowing the door to fit 1000mm gap +/-15mm. Worth double checking the instructions now rather than regreting it later

You will find all dry cast manufacturers will stipulate a minimum 2 week curing time and you would be wise to agree to it. If you want it quicker than that you will need to find some in stock (unlikely) or wet cast, which will be a lot more expensive - around twice the price if I remember correctly. And probably not much quicker

You have to decide exactly what board you want. Bathrooms should have moisture resistance. http://www.mgmtimber.co.uk/images/SheetMaterials/plasterboard-types-mgm.jpg But the chances are your builders merchant will only have around 5/6 options, at which point you decide if its worth the extra performance.

Even if you are able to gwt whatever it is off, there's a high probability of you having to skim it anyway, so just do that now to save messing about.

It looks too deeply textured to just be textured paint. A coat of magic mix (multi finish & 10% bonding) followed by a coat of multifinish and it'll be gone for less than £200.

B&q have some very cheap masonry paints. Especially if you like Dulux country cream. Website is crap and availability is patchy, but worth a look if you are in the market.

It's worth pricing up the parts on the wundatrade website yourself if you are confident

When you look at tge manufacturer info it will sometime specify a 150mm bearing on the larger lintels. You can't go under 100mm bearing, so for your 1248 window you would order a 1500mm lintel

The clearview stoves are excellent

Yes I can see that, but depends if you want the border to continue down the sides, or just horizontally. The 450mm tile can be cut in half as it's a repeated pattern. Five and a half @450 plus two 225 would work

It looks like they do a 225mm tile too, 450x6=2700 +225 =2925 Or 13x225=2925 12 grout lines at 3mm =36 =2961

Insulated pb would be the way to go. Fix it with exp foam and then 4 frame fixings to keep it in place in case of fire.

You need to look at permitted development on the planning portal website to give you a basic idea. A lot of your proposed ideas will be covered there, assuming it's not listed nor in a conservation area. Other ideas you have will all be dependent on the specific location which I suppose you would want to keep quiet until it's in the bag!

I was just reading this article yesterday which you might find useful, but when you are talking about potentially £1000s of pounds, a few hundred spent wisely now might be worth it for piece of mind. https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/tax/personal-tax/confusion-over-cgt-exemption-for-new-homes?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=AWUKPOW290120&utm_content=AWUKPOW290120+Version+A+CID_aa3c62d31490a1b835ee98d920ffddf6&utm_source=internal_cm&utm_term=Confusion over CGT exemption for new homes I would also apply for planning permission for the two houses on completely different applications. You could get pp for the first house, get exemption from CIL, then apply for the second house, otherwise they would not allow you CIL exemption as it's a 2 build not a self build.

Brushes are not yoyr friend for painting cabibets you need to sand the surface, then prime with a dense mini roller, then denib, then 2 coats of topcoat with a denib in between if needed. Only using brushes on mouldings. Even better is a spray finish. For wood cupboards durable oil based eggshell is my go to product. I like Johnsons, but Leyland Trade is nearly as good. Acrylic based is ok, but not for heavy useage areas like kitchens.

It's really not worth doing on melamine fronts. Just don't bother. You can do it on solid wood and at a push veneer, but it's not worth if otherwise, you'll never get a good finish.

Lots of similar systems, tetris, Hanson jet floor etc. You really want a layer of insulation over the beams in addition to what is shown on the diagram. Check u values and prices, but also beam deflection if you are having spans over 4m especially

Cross stack 12 bricks, lift them up and on to your shoulder and you're away! Start with 8 if you haven't done it before. This is a job for a labourer

Maybe the solicitor is actually referring to the actual paper plans or the existing owner has the copyright of the design which you might want to alter?

Yes, you put in a building notice, then they come at the end and inspect and do a smoke test.

Choose your stove and measure the opening of the chimney first. (No point choosing a stove where the M.I says you need a 6" flue if you can only fit a 5" flue) The output of the stove depends on the size of room and insulation/heat losses etc. Ask the stove retailer as the probably supply and fit most of the time. If you are doing yourself hsve a read of https://www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/stove-fitters-manual to make sure you are confident, then simply source the parts from somewhere like fluesupplies. Put in a 'building notice" circa £250 (no drawings needed). Take photos of what you do, just in case, but they will only want to come at the end to do a smoke test (which you will already have done as part of your installation).

Do it yourself and pay £250 to the council for building control

Surely there should be bigger discounts on PB. With the 10% trade discount wickes price works out at £5.93+vat

There's no point sending it to be turned into chipboard etc if you can use it, but in reality have you got somewhere dry to store it as I don't imagine you can have it sat in a skip until the house if built and the wood burner is installed!