bassanclan

+1 for DWB , used them for my 2nd set of trusses, much more professional than my local supplier

Wickes Grantham had the same. Nationwide shortage

The wall plate will be sitting on the inside leaf (usually) exerting little or no force on the outer leaf of the cavity, but as @JSHarris impies, you don't need to worry about lateral forces

By the sounds of things you are struggling to understand the dimensions you really want. I would recommend going to look at some show houses with similar kitchen areas so you can get an idea if the meterage is what you need and want

So do I! I found them on Gumtree, i'm getting them from a large manor house the lady of the manor is friendly with someone over at the abbey which is why she got the bricks for her garage, but has too many left over.

I'm in the process of collecting 3000 bricks free from Retford. Yes, they are free and we're left overs from building new stables st Welbeck, but handballing all those bricks is hard work!

If you have seriously spent £28800 on 8 door handles then they shouldn't be rusty, you should write to the manufacturer explaining that you will be having the metal tested and be seeking a full refund + costs if it's not 316 stainless steel.

I went rafter then sarking then counter batten (in line with the rafters) breathable membrane then tile battens

£5 off £40 at Toolstation until the end of May using code TOOLECNMAY19 from the electrical contracting news. Toolstation are not always the cheapest but are convenient and some things like Leyland contract paint £14.88 for 10l are good value. Works once per account.

+1 to schneider

It's coming along. Go for a fully removable screwed panel, hinged might get on the way whilst working and I doubt you'll need to get in there anyway!

The cost of the design has nothing to do with the cost of the final garden. Youve got to figure what you can afford to spend on the garden before committing yourself to a designer. E.g. turfing might cost you £10-15 per sqm Slabs/decking £40-80 per sqm If you are going to do the work yourself and search for second hand/bargains you can cut it down. E.g. grass seed £0.25 psqm. I just picked up 35sqm of used slabs for £20 - £0.58 per sqm

Hot air gun and scraper is a messy nightmare. I've cleaned 90sqm - never again, but ideallu you need a scraper with a tungsten carbide blade like this https://www.toolstation.com/general-purpose-scraper/p82217 (You can get cheaper) Mount it in a vice and draw your timber block over it, works well when cold.

I bet there was previously carpet over one section and the oak was laid to be level with the carpet. The oak room is too high just to sand it off. If its a small room you could lift it and sort it, but it is very expensive to have parquet floor fitted properly. I assume the lip is just in the doorway In your situation I would try lifting that "soldier course" of oak and taper them to loose the lip, or you might be able to do it in situ

I agree about the back board etc. The photo shows the area under the stairs, it is open to the entrance hall. My plan at this stage is to get the first fix done and then I presume the meter will want replacing. At this stage I just need to figure out if the consumer unit should go: A) Where the existing unit is B) On the wall under the coat hooks C) On the other side of the wall that the hooks are on (cupboard)

I'm rewiring a terraced 60s house. The current setup shown in the photo. At the minute the cables for the various rings go inside the cavity between the neighbouring houses at an angle. Can I place the consumer unit on left hand wall so the runs can go straight up/down. Even better would be if the consumer unit could be put on the back of that left hand wall as it would mean it would be in a cupboard, be slightly easier upstairs and would avoid a gas pipe.

10l paint pot. They won't last but there are always plenty left over from the previous job...and they are free

https://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/premier-carlton-high-level-toilet-ccr013?utm_source=google&utm_medium=Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Ibj_7f_4QIV7b3tCh0WzAE-EAQYBSABEgKyffD_BwE Would a high level cistern do the job?

Anything you've got lying around to form a barrier against the wet concrete will do

If he's happy with 22mm copper then go for it. I would wrap in duct tape to keep the wet concrete off it for piece of mind

If it's a 3 cylinder kubota alpha engine, the thing which I found always needed replacing (when I had that engine in lawnmowers) was a little in-line fuel filter. Worth keeping s spare for the few pounds it costs.

I'm not GasSafe registered so I don't know all the regs. Concrete will corrode copper pipe. 8mm will be fine for that fire. The duct would probably want to be Tracpipe, you could lay this yourself, but once concreted over the Gas safe fitter won't be able to see what the duct is made of and that is complies with the regs. If you get someone out to the job now, explain what you are intending he might have a couple of feet of suitable ducting which he would let you fit and be happy to come back later ti make the connection.

I don't think that will be acceptable. It would be worth asking whoever is fitting it before making any such decisions

Slate slabs, subsequently grouted with a dark charcoal grout

White glass splashback would work with that basin