bassanclan

If the plan was altered slightly to ensure the left hand kitchen wall goes straight back at 90 degrees to the pantry then the plan will most definitely NOT be a wraparound extension. The width of the building has only been increased where that small kink has been put in and has led to a minor overstepping of PD. Assuming the existing property has not already been extended then the key measurement is the distance from the pantry to the back wall of the kitchen. If it is under 6m (and the right hand wall is straightened) then it will fall under PD as @Mr Punter says. You could if you wished apply for a certificate of lawfulness, which would give a future buyer certainty, but this can also be insured against during conveyancing.

I imagine the roofer will want code 3 lead for the soakers and code 4 for the cover flashing

Apologies if you've spent hours and hours doing it yourself (or even worse you've paid someone to do it!), but I don't like much about the design. I think you really need to start again with an (different) architect!

I sometimes use Ashbrook roofing, they are in that area and are well prices for lead etc.

Did you ever get your schedule of works!?

I don't think the 40mm joint will be a problem. If a structural engineer is coming he will be able to provide an opinion, but you may want an independent opinion. Is it a new build house with nhcb warranty?

I was disappointed the last time I used clear ct1 as a "silicone" around a basin, it went yellow, haf similar problems in the past with white ct1, but never any of their coloured adhesives.

Da brockwell nuneaton Travis perkins

It looks like it's asking you to deal the outside of the channel. The gasket is on the outside part of the channel, diverting water into the channel which should then run down the channel and back into the tray. If you install your silicone on the inside that water will flow out of the channel toward the outside of the tray.

I've retrofitted the Winkhaus Cobra Latch, Deadbolt and 4 Hooks, Key wind (K/W) onto a 18c door and it seems to work nicely

Floor standing vanity unit is your best bet

It would look dodgy with pipes going in through the bottom of the semi pedestal. Roca do some open bottom semi pedestals

Google earth historical satellite images may help identify the shed etc?

It may be your garden now, but a previous owner may have bought a field and added it to his garden so he had a 1.3 acre plot, rather than a typical 0.1 acre plot

If you bought the neighbouring fields between you and the next village and amalgamated them onto one title, it wouldn't mean they were in the settlement boundary!

It may be worth seeing if an insurance policy exists for this risk

The first thing is would check is your deeds as a lot of new builds seem to have covenants preventing certain developments, e.g. loft conversion etc.

The width of the spray is determined by the "key" or spraying tip you have. You need the right tip for the right paint/application

That "key" determines the spray flow and pattern. Usually you loosen the very end of the spray gun and it slots in from above. Water is fine to test

No connection or endorsement, but some ideas of what you can do with 60s houses: https://www.backtofrontexteriordesign.com/

It doesn't look like a great job and you could have at least chosen the right colour tiles!

I haven't got any photos I'm afraid. Try running a normal sanding disc over it first to see how it reacts.

I only have the DA 6 car polisher, I can't remember exactly what I did, but I think I used my angle grinder with a stone grinding disc to get it somewhere near and then finished with the DA polisher. You are working with a different material, so I would say start with the DA polisher, but go coarser as you needed it, at least on the first stone.

I have the exact same polisher as you and used a diamond disc to Polish up some slate slabs, so give it a go.

You can raise the land by 300mm without planning permission. Check your deeds to see if anything prevents you putting up a short fence / hedge etc