bassanclan

Get them to use window straps

Before you use it drop the bottle into a bucket of hot water, it will make it more runny and flow easier. For 100 boards i doubt you will use more than 2l Much easier to use from the purpose made bottles unless that is mega cheap

Any D4 will do. Normal pva is no good. D4 is expanding glue and much stronger. Easily available online or from Toolstation or Screwfix

And there is no way I would want someone plastering the celing above my newly fitted kitchen...

"TILES The roof is to be covered with WESTERN SLATE flat tiles as per sample approved and laid in even courses of not more than 345mm gauge and not less than 75mm headlap. The tiling is to be broken bonded." Page 6 of manufacturing instructions Debate over rooftiles_technical_manual.pdf

Have you tried taking a garden hose to the sheltered side?

Sometimes pre assessment can cost you as much as a planning application, but certainly if its free its worth asking.

I can't quite get my head around how the bulges can be solid. I know its flexible, but its only thin render. Are you certain that the substrate isn't moving

Yes a stub sill is better than sitting the frame directly on the stone sill. It may be counter intuitive, but it is better

They are trying to apply for "prior approval" planning which is cheaper. Just say a 3m extension would be more suitable for a property of that size and garden (which is the limit of permitted development).

I'm not sure if people can stop telephone lines oversailing their property???

Yes its a 4 bed bungalow, but the end specification can vary a lot. If you want an accurate price then you need to be detailing everything down to what sockets you want. E.g stainless £20, budget white plastic £2

Would recommend Clearview stoves. Size and output to be determined!

Use CT1, both above the tray and below. Every time you undo it there's more likelihood of damaging the rubber, so do it bombproof once. +1 for the macalpine, available in Screwfix or Toolstation (just check the size of hole in the tray)

To me that looks more like a line from masking tape than caulk

Aerogel is the only thing you can use, but it is very expensive

I used a temporary plywood floor whilst the walls and roof were being built

You can try an insulated floor system such as hanson jetfloor etc, where essentially you replace the concrete block with EPS and then put your layer of Kingspan ontop if needed. There are numerous systems available https://www.bison.co.uk/products/jetfloor/

In my opinion it is better with yellow building sand than red building sand

Is it one of these beads? https://www.plasterers1stopshop.co.uk/product-category/render-plaster-supplies/beads/rendering-beads/ Once you know what you are looking for exactly you can ask at your local builder's merchant or render supplier.

Yes i always blunt the next nail by tapping it on the previously hammered in nail when battening

Resin fixing with threaded stainless rod

I doubt it is a problem with the glass,more likely a problem with the way the double glazed unit has been manufactured. The double glazed units may be bought from another company

https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-24m-easi-close-eps-white-cavity-closer/p48227 Maybe @Gordo is talking about NI building regulations which I am not familiar with

Just to clarify this tit for tat. Fireproof cavity barriers are not and have never been required for brick/block cavity walls. Cavity closers are regularly used, but not usually fire rated. This is not a loophole people are exploiting. Many people wish to build their houses to higher standards than building regulations (mainly insulation wise), but it is their choice.