bassanclan

Keep complaining. Hopefully you paid by credit card. I went to 5 different suppliers of windows before i found one that seemed to use a decent glass supplier and didn't have the bowing of the windows. You really have to go and see their installations before signing on the dotted line.

Screwfix were doing a similar deal, but I can't be doing with single thread woodscrews

Why is it angled?

The problem with our fully integrated dishwasher is you never know if has finished (and you missed the beeps). Semi integrated overcomes this problem, as have bosch and others with little red lights which shine down onto the floor

You need to look at continuous handrail systems if you want to lose the newel post.

Hit with a hammer Take out broken tile Replace with walk on glazing Job done

I'm assuming that this is a solid wall rather than a cavity wall. In a solid wall victorian terrace I renovated i patch pointed a couple of square metres under a window, only to find it caused dampness to come into the house as the original pointing will have been lime and i had used sand/cement. I raked out what i had done and the problem went away.

Thanks for that. It looks like the minimum obligation is 0.7-1bar and 9litres a min. I will check what the neighbours have and if my pressure increases overnight.

Looking for a bit of help. 5/6 bedroom house i am refurbing. There are 4 upstairs showers (1over a bath) and a massive freestanding bath plus a downstairs shower. Fitted a 650l thermal store. There is an issue with poor water pressure and flow rate. Incoming static pressure is 2bar falling to 1.7bar by the time you get upstairs (about 3m so to be expected). Dynamic is 0.3bar Flow rate at a shower is just 7litres per min and 4litres per min at the free standing bath. I have seen many a recommendation for accumulators, but would that do the job or would a pump be a better bet in this instance with such poor flow rates?

Has anyone ever been sacked from local government?

I always go by the rule that if i was fixing something x thick, i would use a screw at least 2x long. E.g. min 36mm screw to fix 18mm osb to a rafter etc. Reality would be 40-50mm screw

Depth of footings is nothing to with planning permission, it is to do with building regulations. A small porch like that is exempt from building regulations. Assuming you aren't in a conservation zone or listed building you can do what you want. Having said that, it makes sense to do it properly, there are nhbc tables which give you a guide for foundation depth depending on soil type etc

It looks like rough cast/pebbledash to me which is a sand cement/lime mix with stones added to provide decoration and texture. The sand/cement/lime mix determines the colour of the background. It will be very difficult, almost impossible to match it seamlessly. It looks like a lot is cracked anyway. Your choices are either to have a deliberate break and a change of colour. Rerender the whole elevation/panel Paint the whole elevation Or accept that it will never be totally matching

No need for solid bricks. The steel or concrete lintel is taking the load.

I have r9 windows and you can't take the sashes or glass out easily and certainly wouldn't be doing on my brand new windows. It is possible, but you would want to be experienced in the window system to do it. We have 3m x 2.6m r9 doors. Due to the scariness of fitting i got the supplier to fit. The correct way is to join everything together and then install. Bottom line is you need lots of bodies and hopefully it is on the ground floor!

Watch out for copyright issues if using your architect's plans

Is it by any chance polished stone porcelain tiles? I have been to a few jobs where people have been sold this as a good idea, but it really isn't!

I prefer Forever white silicone sealant. Never white ct1. Not keen on clear around the wc, would prefer white. If you are doing all siliconing you could use a coloured ct1 in grey and hich would be bombproof, but take a long time and a lot of patience/skill to apply This is a useful thing for removing stubborn old silicone https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-sealant-remover-100ml/88987 The toilet floor fixing kit will have come with caps to cover those holes which can be siliconed in place.

You really needed to get your architect on side and doing the drawings before you let the cat out the bag

If the refusal is due to something you could tweak on the drawings then ask them to delay their decision whilst you get revised plans in

I only brought the weight issue up as I had an issue with 1000 wide R9 double doors and had to have double glazed instead of triple glazed i had elsewhere.

You might not get a manufacturer willing to risk that installation. There is a hell of a lot of weight of glass on those hinges!

If it's only an occasional use door for the odd day in summer then go for the middle option. Personally I would go for the widest doors. In the best of summer i don't want the outside heat over 22c+ getting into my house so I want the doors closed, which is one reason I don't really like bifolds, especially on southerly elevations.

Or fill the gap with mastic and fit proper soffit vents? https://www.toolstation.com/single-round-soffit-vent/p59214

I agree with your builder and architect that it will probably be ok. The only thing that might cause a problem would be your neighbour on the "flank wall" If they notice this change they might kick up a fuss. Personally I would not let it stop works, but I would tell the architect he must indemnity you against any enforcement action because of his error and cover the costs of correcting the drawing and of making a "non material amendment" planning application. There is no chance it will be refused. You could get away without the extra planning application, but when you come to sell an eagle eyed buyer might spot it. Far better to get it sorted out properly now.