bassanclan

You can get acoustic sealant which is a bit like silicone sealant used in bathrooms. Your builder definitely won't do it, but it's something you could do if you are very worried. Personally I'd just leave it

The cost of appealling an appeal is a lot! It's only worth doing if you think the council breached their rules in the decision and then lied etc to the appeal. Solicitor will always say you have a good chance of winning - ask them if they will do it no win no fee and they might think the chances are less good! Far better that you go away and objectively solve the problems. For example contact previous owners of the land and pay them for their time to write affidavits about previous use of the land and stables.

I'm going to plug the book again - the planning game Ken Dijksman (i should really see if I can get him to give me some royalties!) Get it out the library and then you will know so much more

Your proposal is NOT permitted development, but doesn't mean you wouldn't get planning permission

You should calculate the cost in labour and materials and stress of retiling the cracked area and weigh it up against the membrane cost. May well be worth you getting a few extra tiles in as they may not make them in a few months time

Is there a non return valve that might be malfunctioning?

You could lay 175mm pir then fit pipes to the pir and then pour self levelling liquid concrete 65mm thick for a similar build up thickness,much better u value and much less concrete cost.

I've got a floating floor in my extension that the previous owner installed. I wish i had dug it up and screeded it every time I walk on it!

If you are standing in a shower, only the bits which "hold water" are zone 0. The walls above the "tray" are zone 1. Plenty of ipx4 fans available

If the neighbours are happy, just leave it. If they take "enforcement action" you can always apply for a minor amendment planning permission and if it matches surrounding properties you should win, if not then appeal, but all of this is very unlikely to occur.

It depends on which cistern you have got. I fitted one geberit cistern and the flush plate is covered when the lid is up, but the others are not covered.

https://www.eterna-lighting.co.uk/product/lft513wh/ Says discontinued

Cls untreated

Parge coat mix it like double cream and put it on with a broom, no trowelling involved

That sounds a bit usual. Scratch coat then hardwall then skim? Maybe you could agree that you arrange your own plasterer and he carries on with the things you know he is good at doing.

This suggests that the extra money you spent on 150mm pir over say 75mm could have been diverted to improving the other elements e.g. wall roof etc to get more bang for your buck

Is it that much different than a mass produced estate new build?

I don't think your council building control can refuse the job, but private companies can obviously pick and choose

6 dormers suggests its 1.5 storey?

Your builder may have used an online calculator for mortar, which includes the weight of water in the mortar, you are only looking at the dry material weight

Useful little table showing heat output based on different floor coverings and temps https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Floor_surface_temperatures_when_fitting_underfloor_heating

I have a solar in the bathroom (vaulted celing) and it is lovely to be in the bath and have it open. Definitely prefer the solar over the electric we have elsewhere, for ease of wiring up etc, but a north facing or shaded roof may mean solar would be impractical. Your best compromise may be to buy manual ones and a Velux opening pole, i think they are about £30 and made for this specific purpose. If you find you are opening them all the time then buy the solar kit and retrofit.

The 45 degree is clumsy and looks a bit like a diy design. Have you chosen the architect based on a successful back catalogue of past work on similar period properties?

Also do some sums about whether it would be cheaper to replace the whole lot as that is not going to be a cheap floor (per sq m) to buy, but on the other hand if you rip it all up you have to pay for the refitting for it for both the floors.

If the floor is down and sound you definitely don't want to be lifting it. Any decent floor fitter will be able to sand it and refinish it in situ. If you want to find an exact match you will probably struggle, but i imagine you will be able to find something which is so close that once a matching finish has been put on both you won't be able to tell the difference. A good starting point for you would be to take some samples to a local retailer. You can then look at the different floors and narrow down what it is you already have. The previous owners may have bought it locally. You know you it has to be "unfinished" 20mmx100mm. It looks a high grade of timber, not "rustic" with lots of knots etc, but when you have all of them infront if you it will be easier to see.