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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. I was hoping to produce a 3D image of the contours of the area of land I'm interested in, clipped to the actual site boundaries. I was then hoping to be able to view this in 3D spinning around. TBH that is the dream but just being able to view contours would be good. The land drops around 10m from one corner to the opposite diagonal corner and is terraced in two planes. When I tried to view the plot as contour lines it just showed one set of lines which looked like river channels which is why I wondered if it had given me data for the whole OS grid square.
  2. @Moonshine I've had a go at this, not sure I've done it correctly though. I found the OS qrid square, marked out the area of interest using the polygon tool and downloaded the .tif file. When I view it as an image it's just white. I installed Qgis and viewed the file but it looks like it might be the whole OS grid square not just the area I marked out. I don't understand why there are white areas missing in the plot. Have I completely cocked it up.
  3. I don't know what your 'people' are up to but AFAIK adults sitting produce less than 100W and average adults walking produce around 120W.
  4. We didn't have a loft space, open up to the rafters, and I used to see the little buggers on the window sills. They are very small, 3mm long, and IIRC don't survive as beetles for long after laying the eggs. Most of the evidence of their existence are the little dots of wood dust on the timbers.
  5. @Stephen cooper In my first house,over 40 years ago, which was a 17th C cottage we had Furniture Beetle and Death Watch Beetle in the timbers. It sounds like Furniture Beetle is what you have and IIRC they have an eighteen month life cycle and it is the larvae that live in the wood, boring little holes, chewing it away. They chew their way out and turn into beetles which fly off to lay their eggs on another bit of wood. Tapping the wood won't affect them at all. If left unchecked they can completely destroy timber beams.
  6. That is a similar type of construction as my house. I have 350mm I-beams as my main frame filled with Icynene and OSB3 racking on the outside. I then have the membrane and 50mm RW6 Rockwool batts followed by a 50mm cavity and cedar cladding as the rainscreen.
  7. TBH it doesn't look like dry rot or wet rot to me but more like woodworm. Your pictures, of the timber surfaces, show lots of little dots of what looks like wood dust caused by woodworm chewing their way out of the wood.
  8. IMHO Ugly House to an even more Ugly House.
  9. Are you sure it is dry rot. Is the roof not well ventilated because dry rot is a fungus and requires a certain level of moisture to grow. I've seen it under poorly ventilated floors even growing along brickwork.
  10. Thanks for mentioning LIDAR which I had never heard of before. I've had a look at the Government website and they mention that specialist software is needed to view the data. Is the data just coordinates and heights for DTM and how can you find the data for a specific area.
  11. This is how I heat my house which is in the SE England near the coast and has an extremely low heat requirement. I have an electric towel rail in each of the three bathrooms, which in the winter, keeps those rooms at around 24C and provides warm air for the MVHR to circulate around the house keeping it at 23C. If more heat is required there is an EASHP built into the MVHR unit which boosts the temperature of the supply air a little more. This form of heating would not work in anything other than a very low energy PH.
  12. TBH if I was short of height space I wouldn't put a lining in at the top just a door stop straight onto the plasterwork of the opening. Just fit a bit of 4x2 or whatever is needed on the sides to hang the door on.
  13. Welcome to the forum. Well I think I'm pretty average but I tend to live out in the sticks where oil is the most common fuel. I wouldn't consider changing from oil to ASHP for heating an old property. If I lived in an old gas powered house I'd be even less likely to change.
  14. Don't know why I laughed cos I like Android, must be the way you tell em.
  15. +1 for Axminster. They have a store fairly local to me and I usually try there first for tools, adhesives etc.
  16. https://www.aecb.net/product/passive-house-planning-package-v9/
  17. Yes.
  18. Looking at your first picture I'm guessing they're around 150mm posts about 2m high. For those I would use about 450mm concrete cubes. I may be way out but I do tend to over-engineer usually.
  19. If I were doing it I wouldn't have the pads more than 600mm deep so the ducting would be safe and I could do the pads later. Easier than boring holes for the posts.
  20. You must be joking Clive, I have trouble remembering what day of the week it is let alone what I had in a box of bits three years ago .
  21. No, the second time was the same as the first, except they pumped it and laid it properly that time.
  22. We have used Cuprinol Garden Shades to paint various woodwork in the garden. It goes on really smoothly and easily and seems to last well. Lots of colours to choose from. https://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/garden_shades.jsp
  23. We used Siniat Bluclad board behind our brick slips, but they were only 15mm thick.
  24. Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you busy for a while so good luck with the project, oh and welcome to the forum.
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