Gone West

We used NuLok. We did all the membrane and battening and I tiled the single storey area. There wasn't time to us to do the whole roof so that was done by a team of NuLok roofers.

Is there any reason why the PIR can't be glued to the racking with a few screws from the inside to hold it in place.

Similar construction to yours but I fixed 100x50mm battens to the outside of the racking, drilling from the outside and screwing from the inside. Friction fit 50mm Rockwool RW6 batts between the battens leaving 50m cavity then cladding.

Hi Andy, welcome to the forum. Sounds interesting, any details.

It doesn't look like the Chrysotile sheets I had removed from my bungalow but there are other types of asbestos and I'm no expert.

I wouldn't disturb it anymore and would get it tested. I used one of these:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asbestos-Sample-Testing-Instructions-Postage/dp/B0862B9JZB/

Quite possibly. The new bungalow next to us has a half hipped wall facing us which had the walls bricked up to eaves height by one set of brickies and the bit above was done much later by different brickies. The bit above has different coloured mortar which hasn't been cleaned off the bricks as well as lower down. Does not look tidy.

We lived in our old bungalow whilst building the new house in the garden. The advantages being that we were on site all the time and all the services were on site. Removal of telephone line was £0, connecting water £0 and electricity was £476 for removal and £636 to connect.

Our thermostat is set at 23C. Anything below that is just unpleasant.

Excellent! Wendy particularly likes your console table .

Sounds interesting, I'll keep my eyes open for future pictures.

No, it's just a picture I've got showing open cladding.

Ideally the windows would be set back into the wall behind or in line with the insulation.

It's only the sewage treatment plant that causes a problem when there's a long power cut and I'm not worried about other things. We do get cuts lasting from one to three hours occasionally but I guess it's part of living out in the sticks. With the current gales we'll probably get one this weekend.

We shouldn't get power cuts very often because they've replaced all the poles, transformers and cables recently in our area, but we had one the other day for an hour or so. I guess it's just one of those things that isn't a serious problem.

My sewage treatment plant runs off it's own supply from the shed. When there's a power cut we have to limit the amount of waste water used because it's pumped up to the soakaway. I would like an automatic system the keeps powering the sewage treatment plant for around two hours when there is a power cut. The airpump uses 80W continuously and the submersible pump uses 240W, when it runs, which is around half a dozen times a day. I've looked at UPS systems which seem to be mainly for computer type systems and automatic transfer switch generators which seem over the top for a total of 320W. Has anyone got a backup system like this and what type is it?

Just the opposite of Wendy, who hates draughts and likes the whole house to be 23C/24C all day, every day, all year round.

I thought the point of MVHR is that fresh air is being brought in continuously so you wouldn't want to open the windows. If you have MVHR and feel the need to open windows then the MVHR isn't set up correctly.

The water is very hard here and the softener I use removes all the hardness. The anode for the Genvex is magnesium and cost £102 all in from the UK, although they are cheaper from Europe.

The surface area would decrease with time but presumably the material would be lost at the same rate as a volume. I guess the most loss from the anode which is at the threaded end is because the enamelling around the anode hole flange isn't complete. There's no scale formed. I shone a torch into the tank and it's clean but it looks like the anode has a soft coating which may be NaCl from the softener.

I have an enamelled DHW UVC in my Genvex which is fitted with an anode. The manual says the anode should be checked every two years and the expected lifetime is 2 to 5 years so I took it out today after 2 years 9months and it doesn't look much different to the new one, just a bit pitted. The manual says it should be replaced when down to 10mm diameter. The dimensions of the new one are diameter 33.5mm and length 469mm and the removed one 31mm diameter and 440mm long. Calculating the volume of magnesium lost from the anode I reckon it to be about 1/4 of the original. If that's the case the anode should last around eight years. Does that sound right? I have fitted the new anode and don't want the faff of draining the tank down unnecessarily so is it reasonable to to assume it should last at least five years.

IIRC ours had to go a certain way up.

Spray foam would be the best choice as it should stick to the corrugated steel as long as the surface temperature is high enough. The only problem is the cost. I'm not sure whether a thin layer of spray foam with a layer of Rockwool on top would be a problem with interstitial condensation but would be cheaper than all spray foam. https://www.dupont.co.uk/products/froth-pak-180.html https://www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/froth-pak-180-spray-foam-kit-inc-9ft-hose-gun.html

This is ours warts and all.

Yes is the short answer. Nothing is perfect, people, buildings, whatever you can think of.