Gone West

To be fair your house is well insulated. If I lived in Zoots house I wouldn't consider using an ASHP it would be an external oil boiler for me.

I would check loft insulation above both rooms but with no heating I wouldn't expect the temperature to be any higher. You really need to have the heating on continuously for some time to get the fabric of the building up to temperature, which you are not able to do.

I filter hard water but don't remove the hardness, so only Chlorine, Nitrates etc are removed.

We have had water softeners for nearly thirty years and Wendy drinks tea and coffee made with softened water. I rarely drink hot drinks but drink cold water and use a water filter.

I certainly wouldn't remove the CWI and would fit as much Graphite EPS as the soffitt will allow with the rainscreen.

That's great, well done. You must both be very pleased with yourselves.

Too much contact with Zoot.

The Lockshield Valve used for balancing is on the outflow of the radiator and shouldn't be adjusted. The other valve can be adjusted and turned off if required.

You're thinking old type houses, which is understandable because your house is old. My house is a modern low energy house and is the same temperature all over 24/7. We use a 4 tog duvet and I'm quite happy sleeping on top of the duvet. We had the radiators on all the time in the previous bungalow and I am slim but no one has called me a stick insect although Wendy often says I'm crazy.

Yes. Quite often the radiator nearest the heat source will have the Lockshield Valve open a very small amount and the radiator furthest away would have the Lockshield Valve fully open. It depends on the layout of the system.

Those cheapo placcy dials are on one side Lockshield Valves and on the other Temperature Valves, which could be replaced with TRVs.. If the radiators have been balanced correctly then the Lockshield Valves should not be adjusted. They are there to balance the system so all the radiators warm up at the same time.

The problem with old thick walled houses is that they have a lot of 'thermal mass' (naughty, naughty ) and absorb a lot of heat and it takes a long time for the temperature throughout the whole area to equalise. When the heating has been on for a long time the temperatures settle down and everything will feel warm. That's why having a thermometer will give a good idea of how long it's taking to warm up. Your new extension should warm up much quicker than the original part of the house unless of course there isn't sufficient insulation in the loft.

It might be worth fitting one now with the whole of the winter in front of us. The insulation roll should be fitted snuggly between the joists and another layer laid on top, perpendicular to the joists. I always think it's worth checking what installers have done, but then I don't trust anyone.

It appears this lot do a 5.5kWe.

If you can't wait this might work. https://www.screwfix.com/p/talon-110mm-pipe-collar-white/61841

Thought that was called a CHP system.

That could be part of the problem then. Best to go up there and check.

The only consideration we had to make was window treatments with tilt and turn windows. We put in extra timber under the plasterboard in case we wanted curtain poles but ended up with blinds on most of the sashes. As was previously said this sort of thing needs to be thought about earlier especially if you want something like roller blinds concealed above the reveals. I think tilt and turn windows often pose problems.

I don't know if you've said before but have you checked how much insulation is in the loft as you said the room below is warmer.

That's got a silver coated lining, and is usually used when incorporating an underground heat exchanger. I only fitted an ordinary MVHR system so didn't need need it. £9.60/m wow, I see what you mean.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I would say it's possible if it's a straightforward design with nothing fancy and you aren't including fees, landscaping or tools in your costs. Depending on the plot position, services can be significant. Good luck.

I don't know what sort of ducting you're using but my 125mm rigid plastic was less than £2 for a 90 degree bend. I can't think of anything that I thought was a ripoff.

He's still on the staff list so I'd be surprised if he doesn't look in on us occasionally.

If this is of any help we have one of these in several of our rooms. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383680821544

Ours are called Magic Gliders and we even used them for sliding our 210kg Genvex Combi into position. The nearest thing I could find now was:- https://www.magiglideuk.co.uk/