PeterW

Will be fine although it’s worth adding a small stub below the tee with a proper cap that allows any water to drain out.

Difference is Wakaflex has elements of flexibility and stretch that the others don’t have. The others have an aluminium mesh in the centre of layers of PIB or other flexible waterproofing materials which means the material won’t stretch as much. Few also have the self adhesive backing.

See if anywhere local has any forklift stillages lying around. Three in a row on a few blocks or hardcore could be leveled to keep them off the ground.

Sounds like the LA want you to submit design. You’ll need to dig down under the slope, and then return the outlet from an Acco drain back under the driveway. Permeable tarmac will help, but they will need one or more Acco drains in the slope.

If it is your primary pump station then it needs twin pumps and alarms - they need cabling back to somewhere in the house and you also need to lay armoured cables etc so put plenty of ducts in. Also need to know the water table and ground conditions. Needs designing properly based on number of people and BCO may want to see calcs. I’ve use MPC Services in the past quite happily and they have decent presale and after sale service.

How old is the house ..? They have been cut to work the courses but they look a bit like a Dorchester. Where are you in the UK..?

Buffer will be 72°C and loops at 40°C it won’t cool that quick. Oil needs a decent burn - find space for a 100 litre tank and be done with it

ok so I admire your support but how much can you afford to lose ..?? It may sound harsh, but what happens when he gets bored at 6 months in and you’ve not got anything to sell as it’s not finished ..?? I’m not sure where you are in the UK, but there are lots of properties that go through auction that with some medium level remediation can become nice sellable or rentable properties in 3-4 months. Why not start with one of these ..?? My big concern is that he will lose faith, have some setbacks and realise it’s not for him, but with a development taking 9-12 months he will be using BoMAD for that time and tbh that’s not exactly an incentive to finish anything so his motivation and focus needs to be on succeeding. Taking on a small renovation, seeing it through from start to finish and learning as he goes will give him confidence, skills and probably start to build a list of subbies he will (and won’t ..!) want to use again. Your risk is also significantly lower, and unless he does something catastrophic you will always have a saleable asset that you can offload for not a massive loss if it all goes wrong. You see many like this on Homes under the Hammer and other types of programme but the key here is to learn with something by which he can get skills in a reasonably controlled environment and build up from there. Jumping straight into a full house build with no skills or experience, and no real risk to himself as it’s your money, is not something I would be doing. He could end up very good at this but he needs the confidence from successes - however small - before he really knows if it’s for him.

So he will need a lot of collateral behind him. With no experience or history of company accounts he will struggle to borrow. He’s looking at being a developer, and given the margins he will make (probably 7-10% max unless he is very hands on) if he wants to make a decent living then he needs to be turning £500k a year which is 2 average properties. He will need £3-400k in liquidity to do that - where is that money coming from ..?? I don’t want to put him off, but if he wants to be a developer then he’s going to have to do a lot more than manage the builds until he’s got decent money in the bank to fund a series of builds. He will also need some good subs - the point at which they realise he is inexperienced then the weasels will find him. Property development isn’t all Sarah Beeny and smiles - I would hazard a guess there are more failures than successes, and it’s bloody hard work.

No because you won’t need 15kW of heat when the last zone closes down. You could be down to needing 1/2-1kW and you need to modulate to that point.

I’d be looking at 75\25 on that size opening or even just one big field gate otherwise you’ll end up opening both to get the car out.

You need to bring that temperature down. Ask them to redo the design with a 35°C flow temperature and see what it comes out at with pipe centres. Oil costs you the same at 3am or 3pm so tbh you can run it whenever. And you’ll need a buffer tank - oil can’t modulate down to a low flow temperature so you will get short cycling if you don’t fit a buffer tank.

What’s the final floor surface going to be ..?

45-50°C is far too hot for UFH even with pug mix. What insulation have you got ..?

Yes straight off the feed to the UFH manifolds but tbh it’s overkill …

Depends - if it new old stock it will have a premium value to a collector who wants to recreate or restore a leaking old dungeon to “as built” then I suppose there is a market force …

Abacus is only useful when you want to do a fully framed system - you have a pedestal sink for example. Why do that if the toilet Is back to the wall and framed in..?? Secondly that’s quite a lot for a small bathroom - Exc the tiles you should be able to get that lot for less than £1k.

Rising gate hinges are your answer - also know rising pin hinges https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/rising-field-gate-hinge-set-600x90mm-galvanised-827710

There is very little to do on an ASHP. It’s two pipes, a power connection and whatever controller they need for the device. Most have some sort of dedicated control unit that then has a single control cable running from that into the ASHP. I would say it’s no worse than installing a boiler and there is no gas to worry about ..!!

Congratulations ..!! Looks good - time to start a blog !

exc or inc VAT..?? Paid £39.20 exc a couple of weeks ago, Seconds & Co have it at £38 on offer currently.

Just back fill until the last bit you want concrete over is left then fill the gap - try and get at least 200mm over the ducts. No rebar or anything else needed.

Concrete. You basically put everything in a duct and concrete over the lot.

Did wonder if a CU in the shed with RCD and both earth rod and exported earth may respond quicker to a trip. May do it as belt and braces.

Thanks @ProDave Initial feed to garage is RCBO in main CU Just considering the earth trip risk and how to potentially stop the main board tripping the RCBO and not just tripping locally in the shed.