PeterW

What make are the light switches..?? Quinetic switches now come as a slot in for the MK grid system. You could change to using a quinetic for the 2A from its feed and put one of these in the socket paired to the same switch ..??

Thanks @testom That would indicate your ASHP running for 14 hours per day which seems high - has it been cold where you are ..??

Did similar however there are a few things to bear in mind. Run it in 50mm if possible, 40mm is the minimum if you are burying in concrete. Where the pipe drops into the slab, use a tee and run the leg a bit further back, 45 degree bend and then put a screw cap on where it comes out of the floor under the island - you’ll be able to run thin rods through this if it ever blocks.

The big issue with these sort of drains is that the dishwasher goes into the sink drain not after the trap so any smells from the dishwasher drain are transmitted into the kitchen.

Daikin 9kw is shy of £3k which is same as a boiler and tank. https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/daikin-ebhq008bbv3-air-to-water-heat-pump-monobloc-systems-9kw310000btu-240v50hz-7786-p.as Thats from a google search too - can be had for less. Ask for a non MCS install price as that will keep the price down.

Just to add to this if anyone is thinking about purchasing one. The spec is for a max 3a start current and there has been some concern raised about these units just hitting full power and staying there. With a clamp meter on, its fairly clear to see that they actually ramp up over about 15-20 seconds to full power then level off, modulating as they go. They power down in a similar fashion with the load dropping off and then the fans finally powering down. Its probably what I would expect from a Mitsubishi unit tbh, all in they seem pretty well made.

Thanks @JSHarris - I just looked at the first spec I saw, didn’t see that they did the bargain basement version ..!

Don’t have the shear strength of sheradised twist nails. The spec for a bracket is quoted based on it being fixed by “x number” sheradised or galvanised twist shank nails - usually in every hole of the bracket.

As per @JSHarris it you search for these we discussed them back in July. They did list them on Navitrons website for a while - they are a standard Chinese unit although they do list being inverter controller elsewhere but for that price I think they are worth a punt anyway.

Mark the inside edge of the joist on the wall plate and fix the hanger onto the plate lined up with this. Only fix one side permanently - a couple of screws will hold the other side of the bracket. Drop the joist in , tighten up the bracket and finish fixing and move on to the next ...

Fitting kits seem to be a standing joke with these sort of suppliers - it’s a pair of flexi hoses and some feet that they charge £200 for... you can get that sort of thing for £30-40 online.

Temporary screws to hold them in ..?? No reason not to as long as you don’t split the joist ends. And don't forget to use twist nails for the hangers - screws are a no-no ..!!

Only if you use Rockwool. Use a glass wool product which a lot of the cheaper loft products are made from and they don’t like it the same way humans don’t ..! I would look at cheap and fast first to retain the heat through the winter. I’d be looking at putting a back boiler in though first on the stove to get the heat out of it and into the rest of the house.

TBH I was a little sceptical but applying 240v to the unit and 24v to the controls soon kicked it into life. I’m surprised at the low flow rate that it needs - wilo pump on a static head of 2.5m and 16w works perfectly as I know some have had to put double pumps in to get heat pumps to work. The actual unit is a rebadged PUHZ-W90VHA which is designed as far as I can see to be part of a hot water tank system as they state they can do up to 60c from the heat pump. Not sure what this does to the CoP but it seems pretty good from first look.

Efficiency is irrelevant - it would have about 0.5kw output at best so would be pretty pointless unless you were planning on heating a small, well sealed cupboard with it.

Cheaper and easier to do loft insulation - roll it out and forget it. PIR would need cutting to get into the access and tbh I could do that loft in 20 minutes ..!

Ignore blocks - waste of time. Make a frame of 3x2 that roughly fits the opening. Make sure it’s got a vertical for strength too. Push it in about 300mm, screw it to the walls and go round the edges with gun foam. Now cut 3 or 4 pieces of 50mm celotex to fit the same - push in, foam round and add the next one. Last off use some batten or spare 3x2 to hold this plug of insulation in. You can create an alcove or something if you want to as the insulation and especially the spray foam will stop the drafts. Ideally you want 3-400mm of insulation over that kitchen ceiling first before you block it all up.

Looks like the plumber used cowboy connectors on the taps too - they are not designed to take a flexi and will leak over time ...

This is the IVT that a few have - @readiescards has one. Let’s just say that’s about double though on price to what others have paid ..! They are a 9 year old unit that is split from a tank system - no longer sold but under the covers they are a Mitsubishi unit.

I’d be looking at an ASHP that can provide 100% of the heating input at 50% capacity. This means it will have a larger condenser so should defrost less often.

Looks like an Ikea sink ..??

So...... I take it they assumed equal heat loss for all rooms then ..??! You should do a set of calcs (LoopCAD does it by design) that show the losses per room and then this drives the loop spacing, flow rate and target flow temperature. It sounds like they have gone for a static loss and static spacing / flow with the loops being virtually equal in length. I would look at reducing some flows and increasing others to increase the heat to the living room.

Feather over it with a very fine internal filler such as Toupret or Alabastine

Flows are important - do you have the design spec for the loops ..??

I KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS ....... ? Or at least I think I do... if the upstairs and UFH are on together, the upstairs pump will be pulling against a fairly low pressure circuit so the circulation pump on the manifold is basically trying to both pull against the circulator and push against several hundred meters of UFH coils ..... Do they both share a tapping on the TS..??