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Everything posted by PeterW
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New Kitchen/Living extension. Brick & block or brick and timber?
PeterW replied to Triggaaar's topic in Brick & Block
So how are you planning on doing the founds for this as if you are right up the boundary wall (yours I assume ..?) then the founds for the new wall will have to go beneath this. Would be better off dropping the wall and using the new house extension wall as the boundary by the sounds of it. -
Window Companies Alu Timer/Alu PVC
PeterW replied to canalsiderenovation's topic in Windows & Glazing
Not really as it’s a niche market - uPVC is already a low maintenance product, adding an aluminium skin is about aesthetics and not protection or maintainability as with a timber window. uPVC also comes in a wide range of colours now too so if you want it in anthracite or similar then it’s available. -
New Kitchen/Living extension. Brick & block or brick and timber?
PeterW replied to Triggaaar's topic in Brick & Block
Correct on all counts ..! Beads are blown in using a special machine and they did 15 cubic metres in less than 3 hours. The beads are blown in and coated in a film of glue that sets and keeps them from moving in the wall. -
New Kitchen/Living extension. Brick & block or brick and timber?
PeterW replied to Triggaaar's topic in Brick & Block
No reason not to other than cost and complexity. 25mm fits perfectly between standard roofing battens which were fitted to the walls at 400mm centres and the insulation cut to be a push fit. If you go to 50mm then you will need double the timber thickness plus the insulation will be more expensive. -
Anyone ever used UPWORK for Architect/Structural Engineer
PeterW replied to Patrick's topic in Surveyors & Architects
Decent AT will do them and I would ever use an SE that I couldn’t pick the phone up to or who would not be able to do a site visit. -
New Kitchen/Living extension. Brick & block or brick and timber?
PeterW replied to Triggaaar's topic in Brick & Block
Yes it’s about 40% increase on the equivalent value. -
Me I think...! ? I use them a fair bit and always good service.
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New Kitchen/Living extension. Brick & block or brick and timber?
PeterW replied to Triggaaar's topic in Brick & Block
The 25mm PIR helped with two things - the uValue is increased by a fair bit and it made the wiring really easy - we chased 3 back boxes in total. Cavity bead is blown from the inside after it’s watertight as you need the cavity closers in. -
As long as it is a factual representation of the outcome and doesn’t breach the T&Cs....
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....cil...?? Not sure it does though ..! @pocster photo straight on of the brown circular thing and see where the wires go ....
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@pocster So now we have two isolator feeding a single 20A junction box and a timer doing nothing ..?? Has he wired the two immersion’s from the single box ...??
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Discount Offers of the Week
PeterW replied to Ferdinand's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Usual stuff from FFX with their 10 day deals. -
Looks tidy - what are the big gaps in the battens for..?
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Errr... @pocster... is the controller circled the old controller and does it go to the bottom immersion on the tank..?? Follow the wire with the red arrow on it.. If so, I think that’s a standard Drayton central heating controller isn’t it, doesn’t look like a 16A controller so if you turn that on it will probably melt the contacts ... Should be a model number under the LCD screen ...
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Welcome ..! What are the ground conditions below the floor and what foundations..? Any reason for not using a ground bearing insulated slab..??
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You can mix 5mm gravel into SLC as a filler and it works fine. Just make sure you’ve got a method of working out the levels as it doesn’t flow like SLC should.
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Who purchased the cylinder as that looks like a Telford ..? Should have come with all the gubbins to fit it....
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What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
PeterW replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
We did a comparison between a number of systems and the Pex-A systems were not a patch on the JG or Hep2O systems for a number of reasons. The key ones were : - hot water (above 30c) pressure capability is significantly lower than established systems - warranty of 10/25 years depending on systems vs 50 years (from Wavin) - interconnects between new / old requiring specialist fittings - cost of installation / tooling and skills to install were more complex - ability to decouple or remake joints or change layouts was restricted with press or weld systems. - long term availability of spares / replacement parts were not locally available. - standard vs non standard pipe dimensions meant increased number of interconnects and increased price. The key reason for sticking with a 15/22/28 standard was that it was immediately available and did not require any specialist skills or tooling to install, along with a simple method to connect with existing installations or indtustry standard fittings. In terms of flow rates and restrictions, neither system (Pex-A or Hep2O) provide any significant restriction to flow as whilst Pex-A uses expanded pipe around a full bore fitting, the Hep2O sleeve is now stainless and does not impede water flow at all. There are also a whole host of issues around the actual design of the fittings and what happens if you apply lateral stress to them which are based on the material they are made from which makes them susceptible to low flex failure but that’s beyond this discussion I expect.... -
Torx concrete screws: are they the same as framing screws?
PeterW replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Tools & Equipment
Yup they will do it.- 17 replies
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What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
PeterW replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
Sorry John but you have no idea about my knowledge or what I've previously done so I neither appreciate or find that comment helpful - for reference I have a significant amount of experience around M&E systems and controls going back more than 2 decades so my attitude is one based on experience rather than manufacturers website and YouTube videos. I have to say if you spend £750 on a single house pipework then there is something VERY wrong ..!! The total first fix pipework - both in "cheap" Hep2O and copper for a 3 bed, 3 bath house recently done has just nudged the £250 inc VAT mark as it was decided to do the plant room in copper not Hep2O. That is everything including all tap tails, ASHP, tank connections, and other items you CANNOT do with your snazzy Uponor stuff as the MIs require you to use copper for such as boiler tails. MCLP does have its place, and its used extensively in commercial premises where there are long runs and also for ease of install and to prevent alteration by users. The concept of using this in a residential build is limited as it is not easily adapted as there are very few (ie none) fittings available at mainstream suppliers that can be used without the tooling and so it cannot be modified by consumers so is likely to be a reason for not purchasing it. -
Unlikely as they aren't interested. Most of the competent persons registration schemes just report breaches to the appropriate building control departments and leave them to do the chasing. Issue is that most are understaffed so the only person who has lost out is the customer, who has to not only fix the existing issue at their cost, but also pursue the original supplier which is just not worth it usually...
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What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
PeterW replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
The Uponor system is pretty crap tbh and won’t get widespread uptake due to the cost of the equipment and the lack of maintainability. You will still need standard connectors to everything such as taps, tanks and pumps etc. Press fit have been around since the 1990’s when they came out from the hydraulics industry and have never caught on. -
What is the best pipework system for a life inside the wall?
PeterW replied to MikeSharp01's topic in General Plumbing
Hep2O all the way - Wavin guarantee it for 50 years and I would not be mixing copper compression and plastic pipe anywhere... You "could" go with copper but I'd use long street elbows to reduce the restriction if you did. -
That gets even remotely damp and you will have blown MDF....
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I’m looking at this slightly differently ..! You’re going to get a “join” somewhere so if you were to get a local GRP company to make up a 1/4 segment you could have them make 4 identical ones and bond them together and lift it in. Only issue may be that from the looks of it the roof light appears to have a very slight slope ..??
- 47 comments
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- roof lights
- upstands
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
