PeterW

Foam sticks to Foil on the PIR with no problems.

It will be fine but you will need a second IC at the boundary. I would put an IC at your boundary at 1.5m and run down to the sewer connection at 30 degrees so 4.5m back from the sewer. Initial invert and IC I would put at 750mm. Much more than that and rodding may be an issue. If you start at 1.5m down, the boundary chamber will be so deep it will either need to be a full man access 1200 concrete or you’ll need to put restrict rings in a standard chamber.

Coil is fecked I think or at least one of the valves has gone. The boiler on and water from the overflow doesn’t make sense unless there is some weird setup with valves though. I would tell her to budget a grand and get it swapped out.

Could be some sort of iron / steel pipe in the system but it would smell odd of it was a split coil.

Outside light bulbs are notorious for failing quickly due to the heat/cold cycles and they get moisture in the electronics somehow ..! I put a decent Phillips filament LED in one at my mums about 2 years ago though and it’s still going strong. Was about £6 from memory. Inside I use L-Tac GU-10 and they have been fine.

Can you imaging being in there ... and dropping a bolt onto the floor ..???! It would take you a week to find it ..

Great news ..!! Blog time ..??

You’ll need RC35 for a ring beam of that nature, and AI quote about £800 for 8 cubic metres to the South Cheshire area

I’d just do it flat and put a 1:10 gradient on the front edge up to where the door will sit and use one of the rubber threshold strips under the door as they stop 90% of the problems.

Taking that one stage further.... I usually cut the rips into wedges, and then use them to hold the big bits in place and foam between. Just ram the wedges in and snap off the excess. Toolstation 100mm foil tape is very good too and not too expensive

I know a couple of developers who do 10-50 units per year (depending on sites) and they reckon 12-20% but that is before cost of money which can take 3-5% out of those numbers.

The reason a lot of the mass build housing companies do not use ground bearing slabs and prefer block & beam or subfloors is the labour used to do the stages of the build. A beam and block floor can be put in by one skilled with two or three labourers - its cheap and doesn't require a level of accuracy. Also, the pipework for UFH is also easily damaged on a large site, and that requires heating engineers or specialists to install. To reduce cost, and reduce time on site, it is easier to use unskilled/semi-skilled labour in those first stages and then bring the skille first fix trades in toward the end of the build where the properties are secure and wind and watertight.

I’d use low expanding foam and wedge the skirting well so it both grips the skirts and fills all the gaps. Will also stop air down the back of the dot & dab

@JSHarris try Locks Online. I’ve never found a lock they can’t provide.

From memory ... you need to check that insurers will accept thumb turn locks on external doors as the barrel is not deemed to be fully compliant by some.

These are what I use https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/twin-ball-bearing-fire-door-hinge-100x75x3mm-bs-en-grade-13-satin-stainless-steel-pair-738448

Very rare these days on machines over £200 to not have the delay timers already built in. The main reason is they fail safe under a no power situation, so in setting a programme, then setting the timer, you will fail the programme unless its an analog dial and button type machine as they use logic controllers to define programs these days.

Just buy a couple of hose adapters and put the nuts on properly. £3

Really surprised at that price tbh as if you have a passive slab with rebar in it, the pipe will be £250 at most. Have you asked for a breakdown of the price ..?

Thats top end ..!! Anything over £300 for kitchen brassware is a joke as there is about £40 of material in a tap. At £250 you’re paying for a name, you can pick up nice Grohe kitchen taps from £90 upward if you shop around.

Guarantees are one thing ... ripping holes in walls and wondering how to fit the “current replacement model” is quite another .. ?

From memory there is a fitting on the side of the bridging ledger to take a cross brace but it’s been a while since I’ve seen one used - that chimney doesn’t look wider than 8ft anyway ..??

12mm connections are easy these days - converters are cheap and very good. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fltt38-flexible-tap-adaptors-15mm-x-3-8-2-pack/6089r Grohe have two different sets they produce - one is for the DIY market and one for the “decent” ones and the hotel market... I’ve fitted a lot of Twyford stuff recently and been very impressed by the quality of the brassware - it’s contract manufactured but not sure who by.

@Vijay it doesn’t matter how much Kwikstage you have, or what components, you’ll still want more.... bridging ledgers are ok but they bounce a lot ..! That chimney can be done by missing out the bottom ledgers and just use a cross brace and keep the bottoms together with that.

You may want to read this They have been around the block a few times ...