PeterW

Is this a side or gable end balcony as it makes a difference when it comes to the structure if you want the roof to cover it.

You can calculate the expected size which is 10% of system volume usually but that’s due to the delta 55c used in the G3 calcs. Unless it’s a huge buffer, 8 or 10 litres will be fine.

Quick one but yes ..! Should have an 8 litre expansion vessel in the system somewhere - not difficult to add and just set the static pressure on it to 1 bar (they normally come with a 3 bar pre-charge)

Out of the meter(s) there will be some grey wires about the thickness of a Sharpie marker and similar colour. With yours these go to different boards as there are different meters and you’re on 3 phase . These are meter tails. A single phase conversion would run all the tails from your existing CUs into a set of Henley Blocks, then one single tail into the new meter. This Article is quite useful on what Henley’s do

My plasterer uses an aqua crate as it is perfect to give a decent base and easy to move. I keep trying to spot one somewhere to “obtain”....

What is the wall / floor / roof uValue and build up as that’s a big ASHP for a small building ..? samsung are very good but the pricing can be a bit steep. You also get stung about £500 for the controller which you really need. Hot water too..??

Kooltherm is also flippin expensive ..! 160mm is best in 2 layers but there is also nothing stopping your thermal bridging of the rafters so why not improve things by going 140mm between and then 25mm across all the rafters ..? Could also consider 180mm Frametherm with a 55mm PIR over the rafters too as an alternative.

So... uPVC is inert, resistant to all but the most corrosive of alkalis and acids, and does not cause condensation like metal products. Galvanised steel on the other hand is mildly reactive, usually put together with aluminium fixings that create galvanic corrosion with any moisture in the air, and is also prone to condensation unless properly insulated. So, I’d say the chance of failure is a lot higher with steel than plastic ..!

So my thoughts are ... if this is an issue with the state of charge, and it’s based on the “level” in the green goo tanks, then can you not just lift the sensor array up by a small amount and that will then mean 50% moves to 40%..? I’d expect that these things overcharge anyway to ensure full liquidity phase change so it would be a quick fix.

How are you planning to refit the walk on windows …? Have they given you any assistance with detailing..?

Try QuoteRack for a custom insurance policy. I'm assuming this is a BuildStore or similar ..?

Given the size of the room being discussed, I'm with you on that ! @PigsfootI would ask them to factor in a wall plate into the design, that is mechanically fixed to the wall. Given you have a 9" solid wall, I would not be accepting a solution that uses brackets direct on the wall as they will be a pain to install straight and level.

An 8x2 or 9x2 wall plate will be fine for joist hangers to sit on, assuming it can bear both ends on a wall then the bolting becomes a simple M16x150 at 600 centres. My query though is why is the engineer going side to side rather than run parallel to the existing wall..?? If they go parallel then this issue goes away

We have a private road with a byway along it - it’s not surfaced but last year out of the blue the council came along and surfaced it with 10-dust at about 30mm thick. Then sent everyone a letter saying they weren’t allowed to drive on it as no vehicles on s byway etc ... had to point out that they had surfaced a private road without the authority of the owners, and furthermore we had a right of way over their byway... lovely council highways officer then started to back down when I said they had created a liability when they had resurfaced the road, and “our road” was still intact below their surface ... so they had created the issue ..! They then said that I would need a road closure notice to dig a hole in the road, and I had to point out that a byway legally 2m, and the whole road is 7.3m... I want my hole at 3m, so plenty of space ..! The final straw was when they sent me the highways reinstatement guide telling me I had to ensure the top surface was a “ fully bound material “ etc - I highlighted it and returned it in the post with a photo of the pristine limestone they had installed asking why they had breached their own regulations ...not heard from them since ..!

Welcome ..! So the first plus point about a rebuild is that you are VAT recoverable. The second is that you have all the services on site usually, so you’re not beholden to some huge bills for service connections. 180sqm replacement inside £300k is definitely doable - how much can you undertake yourself..?? £1650 sqm is about what @JSHarris spent and he had borehole and other costs in there. As @Declan52 said - post the plans and lets see how we can help.

That would need to use peak power - my fag packet design allowed the use of E7 to fully charge the Sunamp overnight.

@JSHarris I'm thinking for those that want to run an ASHP and a Hot Water Sunamp, so it is only being used as a booster to allow you to use just a SunAmp DHW on E7 alone but use the ASHP

Just a mad thought.... If you put a Steibel Eltron in line water heater into the flow from an ASHP to the Sunamp, would it not then take the output from the ASHP up to recharge temperature..? They are thermostatically controlled and the heat would only be the delta between the ASHP and 58c..? Or should I stop smoking tea bags..?

The issue is that they won't recharge until either 50% or 90% depleted. So you could run 48% out on day 1, it won't charge overnight and then day 2 you try and use 65% and it will go cold. The water heated ones don't have this issue.

Agree with this - last job has a single crack and the only reason for that was an unsupported joint in a bathroom that has now been reinforced from behind. All other walls and ceilings have been fine, this is a block built with boards bonded to the blockwork with DryFix foam

@recoveringacademic if you start to introduce volumes of pressurised hot water above a certain size then it gets into the realms of G3 and other regulations and needs various pressure relief systems and subsequent sign off / servicing.

I’m with @Ed Davies and @JSHarris on this - Willis based simple pump and heater on a dedicated circuit with a small expansion vessel and run at 1 bar which would be outside of the G3 regs.

Only issue is if you use off the shelf components such as UPVC fascia is that they are designed for a 90 degree junction. Would any water or condensation also not run down to the soffit fascia junction and potentially cause issues ..??

Other than @Onoff suggestion, it’s about using the spare capacity in the tee to prevent freeze damage. Small tubular heaters are good in garages to keep above frost level.

25mm MDPE to 22mm copper - but use a length of 22mm Hep2O. Then go to a 22x22x15 tee, run into an end cap on the 22mm and run 15mm into an isolator. Then connect the washing machine and job done.