PeterW

Are those flat faced isolators or just normal ones with the nut and olive removed..??

If you have a local B&Q warehouse they are selling off all their Mapei SLC for £9.98 a bag. It’s good stuff - just add an extra pint to each bag..! Also, get a Plasterer’s bucket for mixing in. Much stronger and will hold the full bag and it’s water. Use the Mapei tile primer too - do NOT use PVA.

One thing people forget is that big fridges and cupboards have big doors - the 700mm Samsung fridge opens out and the door edge is 1360mm from the wall ... that’s the equivalent of two full depth work surfaces. Most kitchen “designers” leave 900 between cabinets and openings - that’s basically a route closed off when the door is opened. Ive done a couple with narrower doors - 800mm wide units with two 400mm doors works well, as do 600mm with pairs of 300mm doors. This is especially good in galley kitchens and means you don’t end up with doors closing off the whole space.

Its fine - plenty will nest there as it’s away from predators such as cats.

I’ve just replaced some downlighting with the LAP fixed ones from Screwfix and pleasantly surprised. Like @JSHarris though I’ve used the flat panel ones and very happy with them and the light you get - if they were to do them so you could have multiple units from a single transformer then I would be even happier ..!

I still feel queasy watching that ..

You need to wet the floor until it’s sopping with a mop, then mix the SLC with an extra pint of water per bag and you’ll find its better than as by the bag instructions. It won’t fully self level but will if you trowel it carefully.

Travis have it believe it or not in 600x300 and it’s about £16/m. It’s part of their trade range.

Nope it’s the Bat work.

Picture...?? DPC under the lot - use it to trap the DPMs. Wrap each over the other the top of the EPS/Concrete and then tape them temporarily. Wire u shaped pins into the EPS may also help, then put a 300mm DPC over the top.

You need this done ASAP - miss the end of April from memory and you will need to wait til October.

There is your issue. Ordinarily you would use a thermal store for this sort of setup - and a big one too - to take the output from the stove on a long burn. These tend to work at the 65-75c tank temperatures and have either coils or plate heat exchangers for the hot water provision. However, if you’re thinking of ASHP for hot water, then you won’t get anything like 65c out of an ASHP so you need to consider either an unvented cylinder or how to supplement the DHW tank heating. Summer DHW use will be the challenge as you will either end up with a thermal store that provides a lot of background heat to the building in summer due to losses, or having to use an alternate heat source such as direct electric to heat water at a higher cost. How much space have you got for tanks, and what’s the plan for the build fabric insulation levels..?

The worry about using GGBS is that the strength is unknown due to its composition so whilst it may be ok for garage footings or non structural elements, I would want a BS known mix for anything such as a ground bearing slab or structural work.

It’s a U Shank fitting. Screwfix do them in packs - 7508V is the product code.

Takes a straight fit blade like these.

Is that just a ditch or is it a drainage culvert ..?? If it’s a culvert then filling it in maybe a problem. You will need to put in some sort of pipe to allow water to flow along.

Any trees in the area ..? Large ones..?

CT1 the pedestal down, and a small bead on the top to bond the basin to the pedestal. Nuts are fine on the basin - nothing else needed.

Overall

For the cost I would insulate it. It will make some difference when you want to go in and out of it, or if you decide to convert part of it at a later date.

Got to love these companies that promote fraud...

Errr.. same as you !!!

Better and less resource hungry would be to count to 24 on the data writes as they are every hour.

+1 to a nice chromed one. They come usually with a chromed plastic solvent weld coupling, you cut the waste in the wall at 30mm or so and then the chrome joiner covers the gap to the wall. Then just fit the adjustable trap.

50m length of cheapo PEX is £30, attach to the pump and use as a poor mans drain jet or use the hose on the end.