PeterW

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Full beds flush pointed and the tolerance needs to be 10mm/5m

Poly is fine - my supplier uses glass as they do it as standard. They are not a full structural solution like metal fibres (usually called needles) but for what you are doing I wouldn’t worry. As @Mr Punter says you could put a sheet of A142 in the slab, just break up a council 50mm slab to use as chairs and job done but tbh this is overkill on a garage slab.

@zoothorn why no heating in there ..?? Thought you had rads and it’s not a difficult job to add one into another room. Alternative is a panel heater and I would seriously consider this as otherwise you’ve just created a store room in all but name.

Where is the front door ..???

Nope just good old glass fibres

Depends on depth tbh. Can you send me latest plans ..??

And all your surface water ICs can be 250/300

You don’t need the two parallel to each other to top right. One will be fine (and better as the flow is more consistent) what is the one middle top..?? Is that just a stack vent as doesn’t seem to capture anything ..??

Steel tend to be used where they are not seen, poly or fibre where it can be floated or finished.

Oh and move the downpipe on the right wall to the top right corner and run the surface water down the top and left sides not under the slab.

Lose them both, bring the connections past the under slab points and add a rodding eye on both ends assuming you have access to the back of the building ..?

Oak and danish oil aren’t ideal - I would have used Osmo Top Oil as it’s more durable. Is stripping it and reapplying something else out of the question ..?

You can use a screed but tends to be with concrete upper floors. You can use biscuit mix or other infill but you need to make sure your engineer will have included the weight of the screed in any timber or concrete floor solution.

Floor boards and joists don’t creak and ping - that’s rubbish coming from installers (who don’t like doing it. Glue the deck to the joists and it is going nowhere ..! And the low temperatures needed of the water mean there is little expansion.

Yeh definitely one to pay on credit card ..!!!

It’s a fire sale https://www.theguardian.com/business/2019/jun/19/bathstore-faces-collapse-putting-700-jobs-168-stores-at-risk

All to do with volume of the house.

Sounds like the flap isn’t closed when it’s heating and it starts at 11pm... so midnight is about right for heat out

Cheap coke but use diet and put it in the cistern first ..!! Flush it through the whole lot as it removes limescale everywhere. Aldi 19p Diet Coke is fine for this.

It will be more to check for oil and hydrocarbon contamination. Transformers can go bang, and they then leak a lot of oil. That’s ground contamination and that’s what they may be inferring.

Planning can only stipulate the externals not how it’s built. I’d use concrete piles and ringbeam, then some sort of metal deck and then build as standard from then onward. This sort of thing. https://www.raisedfloor.co.uk/metal-deck/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-LPM-6f14gIVhbTtCh1TrQTtEAAYASAAEgJQ5PD_BwE

Sorry ..!! MPC Services ..!! And yes, personal experience the they are superb. MPC

It can be done with steps - only need to be an inch or so and then your laps don’t risk being overcome.

You must have insurance as your contractors liability will not cover fire, flood or other damage when they are not on site. Minimum is £2m Public Liability, build insurance should be full cost of demolition and rebuild which may be more than your budget if you are doing a lot yourself. Do not under insure ..!!! £100 saved here could cost you thousands ..!!