PeterW

Do you mean a Ground Source Heat Pump..?? If so, stick it as far from the house as possible as they can be noisy, and you also need access to change the coil fluid every so often.

@Pretty Mouth where in the UK are you as different sewage providers have different rules. For Severn Trent you will need a build over agreement, and I would check your local provider as to what they need you to have first. In terms of rod access, you can put a sealed access point at the bottom of a stack but it’s a last resort. I would replace everything in the plot boundary possibly with uPVC and use swept entries to the runs - the far right gully I would make into a back access gully and put a long swept bend on it so you can rod or jet from there down the run. The rest, make them as short as possible with minimal turns and always use a 45 degree Y to connect.

Fan noise can be due to a few things including blocked filters. Have you tried running without the filter on the inlet to see if it changes the noise ..?

I would be more worried that they have used a timber hanger on the roof to steel connection and not supported it on its full depth. I’m not aware of any hangers that will work without a fully supported end bearing.

Ok just watched that again (with sound on...) and it sounds like that is too tight and it’s a whistle across the vent. Can you unscrew it ..??

What sort of inlets are they ..? Photos would be helpful as if you screw certain ones down tighter they become louder. Also what is the layout - how close to the the bedroom unit is the noisy vent ..?

It’s rubbish. It’s due to how the glass was made and blown, and it was uneven to start with.

Ok so refit it, and press the egg timer and the fan down arrow simultaneously. That should make the normal and min lights flash. Then see what the noise is like ...

Hmm ... got a screwdriver ..?? Wonder if there is anything on the back of that control panel ..??

@JamesJJJ can you find an exact model number or a photo of the control panel ..? Can work things out from there but this sounds like the reason you’re off is that it’s running way out of balance.

I insist on lead dormers - looks the business. I will use leadex where it can be reached to stop it being removed by light fingers ...

Take both sides off the unit if you can - possibly somewhere toward the middle unless for some surreal reason it’s mounted on the back of the control panel ..???

Lead isn’t that expensive assuming you don’t have 40 windows ... what is the section detail the architect has given you ..?

When was it serviced ..? Docs seem to say max 9 months between filters, should be a 5 minute job to change them. They are two different types, @JSHarris had a good link a while back to non-branded filters that weren’t too expensive. Every 6 months seems to be the norm.

So in the manual there is a guide to setup - what’s the total area of the house (all floors) and the ceiling height ..? From that you can set the power on the dial, and then there is a also a night time setting to reduce the speed also. Where are you in the UK..?

Yes probably as you only need a few watts of power. Transferring the rotary power to a generator may be the issue though so daft as it sounds a purely mechanical way may be easier such as the way the old wind pumps used to work.

Doesn’t look too complex - do you have the commissioning sheet as normally that is the reason why you have noise when the vents are done up too tight. Manual is here - if you can get the cover off and take a photo of the DIP and Rotary switch settings it may help.

Do you have the model number of the MVHR ..??

Your system will be filtering out the dust and pollen so that’s a significant benefit in the summer. 130w sounds like boost mode - has it got an automatic override ..??

20Kpa is equivalent to 20Kn/sqm 20Kn is equivalent to 2040kg (~102kg/kn) Clearer..?

Ultimo and Roper Rhodes do bathroom furniture via showrooms, but Howdens also have it in their catalogues.

Ok but how will you tie the ceiling insulation to the wall insulation ..??

Don’t bother with adhesive or dot and dab - get a couple of cans of the low expansion gun foam and a plant sprayer with water in it. Squirt a line of foam on the boards, then spray it with water and leave for 5-10 mins to expand. Then lift the board to the wall and the foam will bond the board on. Also foam between the board edges and it’s not going anywhere. Battens can be added once it’s all gone off. Foil tape the joints for good measure - what are you doing about the ceiling ..?

Isn’t the question if you have undertaken the transaction post 31st October, but delivery is after, what tariffs apply ..?

The meter just plugs in to the bottom of the Toby - it is a bayonet or thread fitting from memory. To the right of the meter is a plastic hex nut - that should have a black plastic key on it, and it isolates the meter so that’s the flow through the unit.