PeterW

Don’t forget if you box it in, you have to leave access to all the joints in the flue for periodic inspection.

Pressure is equal in the system throughout. Only thing that changes is the flow rate through the rad dependent on the gate valve setting.

Is this to wrap the bottom of the static van ..?? bales are best - tarps as a last resort to wrap them as the “flutter” if you’re not careful.

As said- Hep2O push fit end caps, but will only fit on clean cut pipe that has been cut with a pipe slice. Invest in a 15 and 22mm one of each and they are invaluable.

Or are you looking to put a transmitter in the back box to utilise one of the existing switches ..?

Easily swapped though. What brand ..?

yes ... who’s plate is it..?? Quinetic do a matching grid switch you can mix and match between wireless switches and grid switches.

that’s the maximum value where you don’t need dedicated air.

So keep the stove below 5kw and ensure your MVHR over supplies to the room with the stove ..

It can - but the Ecodan controller for hot water is a different beast.

You can get custom fixed roof lights to any size - Roof Maker do them for example. Cutting and retrimming to standard sizes isn’t that onerous as long as you do it properly and also only remove one truss of a set - any more than that and you need to look carefully at the top chords and beefing up the framework.

Hive only plays nicely with S-Plan systems as it is used to having the zone valve to control when doing both heating and hot water. AIUI - the Ecodan controller needs different signals to control a higher temperature for water. To be honest I would let it do that as I can’t really think of a use case where you would want to control the hot water from your phone / iPad / tablet as you want it to be either “on” or “off”. If you’re on E7 too, you will want to be optimising the night usage anyway.

its pretty easy to use but brutal on tools. Buy cheap ones and you’ll need the warranty a couple of times but will do it. If you’ve got timber studs then an air stapler with 40mm crown staples is much quicker and easier. FST is the weirdest stuff ever - only needs a squeegee to apply it ..! Looks like it’s not gone on but dry in minutes and perfectly flat.

You will need as a minimum all the primary pipe work within the vicinity of the UVC lagging, it’s a BRegs/Part G requirement. Not difficult to do tbh and shouldn’t take long. Use Climaflex from Screwfix, and tape all the joints with 3M Electrical tape.

Here you go @Onoff.... Could reprint a new Capri shell.. https://www.thefabricator.com/additivereport/news/additive/university-acquires-worlds-largest-3d-printer-and-builds-record-polymer-boat

That’s not far off being correct - the only “issue” comes with how you treat the soffits in this situation as there will be some slight differential movement however that will be minimal. There is probably more weight in internal plasterboard to be honest than roofing materials - wonder how that affects the frame ..?

7kW one for £750 in Devon here

So you don’t need 50mm if you’re using a breather membrane - 10mm will do, and you can get 100mm in there which would be better with just 25mm over the top, back filled between battens. Tape the lot and there is your vapour control too.

90 degrees into an IC is standard - all the side entries are either 90’or 45 to the main channel flow.

For little stuff for 3D printing I use TinkerCad as it’s very intuitive.

How deep are the rafters ..?? That seems to indicate you only have 70-100mm Rafter depth for insulation .??

I've got a bit of a random one here where a large (40sqm partial double height) kitchen diner has both extract and intake. Adding to this... its a heated room, and also contains a WBS... So just doing a quick check, I've got utility (with in slab UFH), downstairs WC (with in slab UFH), and kitchen diner all with UFH which essentially means I've got 52sqm of circa 80sqm heated slab in the extract zone. Then, a bathroom and ensuite totalling 15sqm upstairs both electrically heated with towel rails. Will be interesting to see what the extract temperatures are running at when its all running properly !

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EI1529RC.html - Switch https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EI146RC.html - Optical https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EI144RC.html - Heat

Aico... With the additional switch to do the silence/test/find

These will have a specific profile - usually to the manufacturer. Quickest way would be to template one and use a plane and router to create something that’s a near match and the “hide”it where it won’t show up as much.